So back to Quito for 2nd and final time...could easily do the city in a day so any future travellers should head to the outlying towns for a better Ecuadorian experience. Have also joined up with my buddy Tiffany I first met 3 months ago in Argentina whom we are heading to the World Cup together.

Like all backpackers I went the Equator...the middle of the middle. Back growing up I remember this Simpsons episode where Bart didn't believe the toilets flushed differently in the Southern Hemisphere than Springfield...he called a kid in the outback and as Bart still didn't believe him the kid had to go cycle to his neighbours farm to confirm...3 days later the kid returned with an astronomical phone bill for Bart (Homer!). Well he could of saved time and called Ecuador as either side of the middle of the middle are toilets to test the theory and you will be pleased to know no photos...only joking but there are sinks to prove the theory of clockwise in Southern and anti-clockwise in Northern hemisphere. There are also loads of other fun tests (like being at Science Museum in London) but the interesting part is that the locals knew this thousands of years ago using sun/stars etc.

As I said Quito doesn't offer too much so after this headed to Mindo for some chocolate tasting and tubing. Not that I am becoming a twitcher but this town in the cloud forest has 22% of Ecuador bird species so it was cool seeing these hummingbirds eating as I was tucking into my eggs!

Final Ecuador stop was Otavalo for the largest market in South America. You want it you can get it. Started off at the animal market where in bags that wobble you hear screeching of animals wanting to escape. Cats, dogs, chickens, Cuy (guinea pig), sheep, goats, pigs (who don't half squeal when being taken home), cows, horses and llamas. Unfortunately my rucksack is full otherwise a cheeky llama for Balham Park Road would have been fun!! Then in the town you can buy anything as well as the usual Gringo traveller crap.

Now i wanted to write this blog from Colombia where I am heading but the border is closed (thanks to elections) so writing from the border frontier town in Ecuador and hope to be leaving today. 

Like all developing countries...we arrived at the bus station and the taxi driver took us to the frontier knowing it was closed - $3.50. Then he offered another way into Colombia with a smirk on his face at more expense. Then we had to jump back into a taxi back to town for a hostel resembling Fawlty Towers - $3.50. Grrr I hate being conned. You can't help think that back home if something is closed the honest taxi driver wouldn't take you there! 

So I am flying home from the Galapagos and looking out across the amazing archipelago from my window seat with a big smile on my face. Been here for 9ish days and although not cheap has been worthwhile.

So Galapagos...everyone says the best part of their South America trip. Do I agree...sort of...I am lucky enough just on this year abroad to have snorkelled with whale sharks; seen 200 elephants at the Chobe river and watched a leopard with his kill up a tree...so this is up there. The iguanas and tortoises are superb but what really stands out for me is the close proximity you can get without scarring the animals...the fact they don't see humans as a threat...the animals live in relative harmony with each other. So come here and you will love it but make sure you also go on safari and snorkel in the reefs because equally as good.

There are many islands here but only 4 are inhabited. Without boring you with the details I was on Santa Cruz, Isabella, San Cristobal, Espanola and Floreana. They all have amazing beaches with amazing animals and sealife. I saw tortoises, land iguanas, sea lions and numerous birds while ashore. In the water saw loads of sea lions, sea turtles,marine iguanas, penguins, sharks, rays and numerous tropical fish.

Will let the photos do the talking but for me the real highlight is close proximity you can get to these animals. They are not scarred of humans and don't see them as a threat. The Islands are perfect ecosystems with few predators...the big wow for me was snorkelling with sea turtles and sea lions without a care in the world. The sea lions particularly playful if you dive down and wiggle about a bit...they think it is play time...thus coming to within inches of your face!!

I slummed it for the first 5 days before the last 4 aboard a luxurious catamaran called Anahi...although a backpacker I need comfort and style once in a while...poshpacking or glamping!

During my teens I was lucky enough to sail (really just motor) the Channel with one Channel crossing from Alderney to Hayling Island with the Van Dort's particularly etched into my memory...despite this practice the sometimes rough crossings to the islands didn't help me feel a little queasy...although it's when the boat stops that gives my stomach an extra unwanted churn. Even now on dry land I still sway a little even without any Pisco Sours!

I met some round the world yachties who amazed me of their journeys from Europe and now heading to French Polynesia!! Despite me thinking I have sea legs my round the world yacht trip is being put on hold until I can stomach living days at sea.

After roughing it and doing day trips I splashed out on a 4 day boat trip to the islands the day trips are not allowed to reach hence the big draw. I managed to get the deal for half price as booked few days before and was well worth it given the quality of the guides and the amount of food I have consumed (the plane is tilting to the right slightly!). Now boarding a boat with 15 others means you are living, eating and socialising together for 4 days so don't piss anyone off!! A few of us got discount at the last minute...rule number one therefore is keep it quiet...people don't like to hear they are paying double...what do others say day 1!!

As a keen social observer/people watcher it was great to see the different dynamics develop on board...

- being Galapagos you get some serous animal nuts. One chap on board had RSPB binoculars...not sure if that means Fisher Price Dummy guide to being a twitcher or some serious bird spotter. Luckily he left the jotter behind and turned out to be not even close to Bill Oddy.

- then we had 3 young girls from Israel who wished it was more of a party boat than full of serious animal enthusiasts...the days started at 7am and bed was usually 8.30pm with night sails...they also decided to miss a lot of the excursions so weren't popular on board. The boat had a hot tub which they wanted to use...again in a national park not Cancun!!

- then you had a guy who was filming everything with running commentary...his wife using numerous technical cameras. They also loved correcting each other and me on occasion!! Essentially non-cool geeks.

- a hard core cruiser who had a wonderful character who turned mother to me to ensure all was safe. She rubbed the Israeli girls the wrong way who smoked a lot so she worried the boat would burn down!!

- finally my room mate who was sharing with her friend/colleague but after 2 weeks of snoring needed a new roomie...I was a gentleman...forgot to knock, read until the late hours of 9.30pm and of course made a mess.

Who knows what they said about me but like to think that I have manners and have been brought up proper and in a boat situation you try not to cause friction!!

I am in a new country...Ecuador...the problem is every time I think "oh I am in Ecuador" I break out into a mini rave thanks to the 90's tune by Sash!

Before arriving I was losing my travel Mojo...think due to the many 18+ hours bus rides I did to get here...but my Mojo is now back thanks to meeting some cool people on a bus to Banos and only have max 4hr bus rides to endure thanks to the small size of Ecuador.

First stop was Riobamba which is not worth the stop. I was here for the train ride except I got the wrong town for the AMAZING engineering feat of Ecuador so went by train into the mountains but nothing WOW about it. The train to a little village with a misty view of the tallest mountain in Ecuador was essentially something BA Baracas and the A-Team put together...They went into a shed with a truck and a train...put on a battering ram and roof top for sniping and finished with my train! Call me spoilt but having been on trains in Argentina and Peru this was definitely in 3rd place. The A-Team turned into Mad Max as we had these 5 motorcyclists clad in leather with masks following us to block the roads.

Following unsuccessful Riobamba went to successful Banos...essentially a hot spring town with activities galore. It is next to a very active Ecuador volcano...went on a party bus to see this volcano...well the mist meant we couldn't even see 20ft so can't vouch for the volcanic activity!

As I said previously in Peru went for a training run and my legs were still hurting so I decided to go for a massage the hostel was offering...$20 for 1 hour so I was game. First thing with a massage is don't fart so need to keep the cheeks under control. Second thing is keep a memory of Margaret Thatcher in the mind in case things get embarrassing. My face was head down and was nice and relaxing until I heard the sound of rubber gloves...bit kinky and I don't even know Spanish for "extras"...first thought was what are "safe words" in Spanish to get me out of this mess!! Luckily nothing untoward happened and think they were used due to the fingers having bobbling for exfoliation. By coincidence "Chariots of Fire" came on the radio as she was working my legs. To make things worse she then used gloves to finish me off (not like that!!) rather than her hands like I had some sort of skin rash. Despite all this felt relaxed and rejuvenated with my legs ready for the next beating...cycling the next day in the rain through the canyon.

Luckily the cycling was easy and downhill that passed many waterfalls which was great to get up close and personal to but call me a snob but when you get under the Iguazu Falls nothing compares!!

Next stop Latagunga for some glaciers and volcanoes...as you can tell I am in a rush due to a flight tomorrow to the Galapagos! Did an acclimatisation trek to the Quilotoa lake at c.4000m which was a stunning blue/green/azure colour despite the intermittent rain. The following day I was going to summit Cotopaxi which at 5900m is higher than Kilimanjaro...although you drive to 4500m so kind of cheating. Due to the poor success rate and poor weather (ie no visibility) I just went to 5000m to see the start of the glacier. This volcano erupted in 1905 and erupts every 100 years so watch out if you visit soon!!

Now I like ticking boxes and getting to 5000m is an interesting box that I have now ticked...I have been higher than Mount Everest!! Due to the curvature of the Earth the glacier on Cotopaxi is further from centre of Earth than Everest...surely the true measure of any mountain and summit!! Now I am no Stephen Hawkings (no comments!) but if Everest is 8900m above sea level and I was at 5000m yet further from the Earth core...does this mean all the water moves from the Ecuador to the poles??? Surely gravity has a part to play??? One for the boffins to explain! (By the way if my logic is rubbish and I am going loco then blame not working for 7 months!!)

Next up in Graham Physics lesson...which way does the water flush when using the toilet at the Equator??? (Don't worry won't show photo evidence!)

Final stop of this Ecuador section was Quito. The amazing thing is that you use the PanAmerican Highway to get here...if I went South would end up in Ushuaia, Argentina and North would be Alaska, USA...bizarre!!

Another city...another stat...second highest capital in the world with the 2nd longest cable car to the nearby volcano! Was also the first UNESCO city! Love a factoid!!

Despite its sometimes dangerous reputation it isn't a bad city although weather hasn't been kind. The only thing dangerous about it so far was me climbing the metal staircase to the Basilica tower in a lightning shower in flip-flops!! The old town is nice with old cobbled streets and balconied houses/mansions.