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Palmertours does SAGA

8/4/2014

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Palmertours is a multi-cultural non discriminatory charitable organisation and that is why I have opened the door for the first time for those with bingo wings, cankles and suspected hairy upper lips...yup Palmertours also caters for the older generation...and I mean old!! Now obviously my mother who joined me this week for 3 weeks doesn't meet any of these criteria but I was willing to make an exception.

So looking like a New Yorker (smart dress with sneakers) mum and I ventured from neighbourhood to neighbourhood seeking out all the major sites Buenos Aires has to offer. From La Boca in the South with its colourful housing to Tigre in the North with its boat houses and waterways. Fantastic effort as ever from my mum who didn't complain...much...and just needed the occasional coffee as a pick me up. As this was my 3rd visit to the city I was able to navigate with ease but this time actually go into the museums and galleries rather than just a fleeting visit. The city has enough to see for 4 days but no more and luckily our timing coincided with the Madres protest on Thursday who are still looking for their children taken under the dictatorship regime. What was also nice to explore were the numerous antique shops with old Louis Vuitton trunks, Harley bikes and pinball machines...could see myself opening up a shop in Notting Hill next to Hugh Grant book shop!

For me the plus side came in staying in a hotel...free towels...TV in the room...sharing with a non-snorer (most of the time)...and more importantly unlimited breakfast every morning. Like a true backpacker this is red rag to a bull so made sure our breakfast sitting was 30+mins to last the day!

Our aim most nights was to find a decent hotel bar for a drink before a nice slap meal...well steak and red wine essentially as that is what the Argentinian's do so well. Drinking in a Philippe Starck designed hotel was a good start and followed this by a top steak house Las Lilas...only issue we didn't have enough cash with us as credit cards are pointless as costs 30%-40% more...luckily no washing up or a quick sprint was involved but dessert consisted of a McFlurry rather than something covered in Dulce De Leche.

Back home I enjoy a bit of culture now and then whether theatre or art and thus made sure this was ticked off during these four days as not done much over the past 6 months. Visited a Mario Testino exhibition; watched a tango show in the famous Cafe Tortoni and the highlight the opera Caligula at the majestic Teatro Colon. Worth mentioning the opera...wonderful setting...but the opera was in German with Spanish subtitles (Just like watching Apocalypto in Peru eh Dave) so didn't understand a word...plus being an ENO production the show had a modern twist with a lot of nudity!! something the BA crowd didn't enjoy as many seats emptied at half time.

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Some of the famous people and characters of Buenos Aires in the various neighbourhoods
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From rusty ships to cars of the future venturing further afield to the burbs showcased some interesting finds
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After a haircut and wash the Palmer's scrubbed up alright for an interesting operatic performance in a fantastic venue...always good to throw in some culture!!

We headed north by plane...another advantage of Palmertours does SAGA...Iguazu Falls voted one of the natural 7 wonders of the world (along with Table Mountain) and it certainly didn't disappoint. Wow what a amazing magical place. On this trip have been to the Victoria Falls albeit in dry season but these falls blew me away. To go to the Devils Throat you need to walk a 1km over the river and the excitement builds as you get closer...you feel the spray...you hear the crashing water...then when you arrive and see it in full flow it is magical. The place also has an Avatar feel due to the moss and plant life around the falls.

We continued around the falls as there are around 250 to see and by the late afternoon it was time to do the Great Adventure tour...15 min boat ride in and out of the falls. Some wore swimming costumes and goggles - extreme...we were more casual which we later regretted as you don't get wet you get DRENCHED! Ponchos and waterproofs don't even work...the boat drives into the falls so all around you is water. Apart from having a girl scream in my ear the whole time it was awesome and a great thrill and after wiping the mascara off we both looked semi presentable coming off the boat although the squelch with every step gave the game away as to where we had been. Our reward was a drink at the on-site hotel overlooking the falls although had to act like we owned the place as we continued to squelch through the lobby to the bar!

The next day we planned to go to Brazil to see the falls or the animal sanctuary but as on holiday we sat by the pool and just chilled. Given mum was asleep until lunchtime sometimes you forget that guests are here on holiday and with an intense 10 days to come in Peru and the Inca Trail recharging the batteries was just what the doctor ordered.

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Wow wow and errr WOW!!
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Tried to see a pot of gold but nothing...tried to find Avatar but nothing
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The best way to see the falls is to get too close to them!! Some tourists were more prepared than others!!
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Some interesting wildlife along the way to the falls...don't worry I haven't painted the nails of my left hand!
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Halfway House

31/3/2014

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If they were to make a "Shaun Of The Dead II" (outside of the Cornetto Trilogy) I would make a great extra as a zombie and know how to make it look realistic ... by doing a 24hr plus bus journey.

A) prior to bus departure do a power walk up a hill to the bus station at 3600m above sea level as you're running late for the bus

B) embark on a 16 hour bus journey through Bolivia where the seats are a little tight and your legs are way too long to get anywhere near comfortable. Ensure the person sitting next to you likes to push his elbows out when sleeping

C) ensure the bus stops every 3/4 hours to pick up passengers. Whilst at bus stops ensure people arrive with dodgy smelling goods/food that then stinks out the whole bus

D) upon arrival at border control at 8am ensure it takes 3 hrs for customs clearance and 2 passport stamps ... again make sure you have a look of worry that it might run out of space! Plus as you're going from Bolivia to Argentina always worry about the rubber glove treatment

E) jump on another bus for 8 hours to destination

Voila ... arrive smelling bad, with glazed eyes from lack of sleep plus malnourishment as the buses don't have toilets so you don't eat or drink for extended periods!

And I enjoy this because?


As I said before, the last week has been a lot of buses to make tracks to Salta in Northern Argentina for my flight to Buenos Aires tomorrow. Therefore in order to try and see everything I crammed lots in...

- In La Paz, I went to the Moon Valley and did 2 hours of off road motorbiking through beautiful countryside and only 20mins downhill from La Paz. As I was riding relatively quickly this meant I killed time riding through some Bolivian council estates... which meant riding with my legs up to avoid the stray dogs chewing your ankles!! I always love a bit of additional danger...not like riding off-road across mountain passes is safe!!

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A cross between a storm trooper and Daft Punk racing through the Bolivian countryside
- Went to the wine region of Cafayate for a speed drinking vineyard tour. I managed 8 across 2 half days. It's famous for its white Torrentes wine...smells sweet but tastes dry...not bad but not a touch on Mendoza Melbec...having said that the settings were beautiful and reminded me of Cape Town vineyards. Just a note if doing it by bicycle - don't wear flip-flops (Jandels to my NZ friends...Japanese Sandels) as after a few wines you feel gun-ho going over bumps and you end up scraping your foot! The drive leading into the town has amazing geology through a colourful gauge...as a drive-by tourist just snapped from the bus but still good.

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Wine tasting had it's downside...injury on the bike...plus I felt like I starred in a camp version of ET with my pink girls bike and basket!!

The reason for choosing Salta for this week is the "Tren a las Nubes" or train to the clouds ... now I am not a Malcolm or Nigel and like train spotting, I just enjoy the mode of travel as I can walk around and it is more pleasant than bus. This didn't stop me wearing a parka and having a spotting jotter though! It's the 2nd highest railway in the world!! It has 217km of track, 21 tunnels, 13 viaducts and 2 zig-zag and starts at 1187m and rises to 4220m!! It was the opening weekend so we had a marching band to wave us off . It runs weekly and first time of the season had cars of people following us for a glimpse of the train and it's journey! The scenery and engineering are stunning but the train looks more like a Cape Town commuter train than tourist luxury travel hence it was odd to see all these cars wanting to get a glimpse of the train...but then I realised there are no trains in Argentina so there is a novelty element to the journey for them. Singing the national anthem at the top was unique and made me realise how patriotic they are...I didn't mention I was British!

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Train to the clouds lived up to its reputation...had snow at the stop!!

- I succumbed to an old trait...I was craving Crunchy Nut Cornflakes with cold milk FOR DINNER!!...I couldn't find any but saw "Honey Graham" instead as a good alternative. It's a bad habit I know but when all you have for breakfast is bread and Dolce De Leche spread I needed cereal and cold milk. I guess it was karma for buying the cereal as I accidentally picked up soya orange juice to go with it!!

- Salta is a nice enough city but want to highlight one museum on the square. MAAM - in 1999 some European geologists went to Volcano Llullaillaco at 6739m which was an Inca sacrifice site...they found 3 fully preserved children from the -20C temperatures with face, skin and clothes all in tact...seeing it was quite remarkable especially as only 15 years ago...imagine how many more are out there!

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Salta valley sightseeing...always proud to see the RAC equivalent helping the local motorists...just wish I still had my membership :(

Time for reflection...

Wow ... my 6th month travelling milestone has now been reached. Do you miss me? Even know that I've gone? Remember my name?

For me the time has flown by, but in a fantastic way. My energy for travelling has ebbed and flowed as it naturally would but as I write this blog and now list my highlights it brings a smile to my face and real sense of achievement ... to see what I have seen ... done ... what great characters I have met and what experiences I have shared.

Some highlights so far:
- Quad biking with my 5 year old nephew Rex on my dad's farm in South Africa
- Sharing afternoon tea with my 91 year old Nanna
- Reaching the peak of Africa in Kilimanjaro at 5895m to the most Southerly tip of Africa at Cape Agulhas
- Teaching children in South Africa to read and helping adults to use a computer
- Travelled by plane, train, bus, taxi, tuk-tuk, rickshaw, motorbike, quad bike, bicycle, underground, horse, boat and ferry
- Reconnected with family and friends from all parts of the globe from Sydney, Bali, Cape Town and even Wales
- Swam with whale sharks, held a lemur, seen 200 elephants at a watering hole, had a monkey climb up my leg (not a euphemism) and heard a sea lion roar
- Drank 'mate' with the portenos of Buenos Aires and Melbec with the bodega owners in Mendoza,
Argentina
- Driven a 4x4 through the Atacama desert in Chile and cycled down the road of death in Bolivia
- Been overwhelmed by the beauty of Patagonia and the Salar de Uyuni

All in all I have covered 12 countries so far, I have the passport stamps to prove it ... although I cant really say I know Zimbabwe that well!

When I started the trip I wanted to track my progress with daily photos ... this proved harder than planned and has been dropped. What i have got immense pleasure from is this blog, it allows me to think about what I've recently done and put down my experiences and thoughts and will become a permanent record of my sabbatical journey. Amazingly to date I have had 7700 views of my website (7699 of those views from my mum) so thanks
for following the story.

When I look at this extensive list it feels great to have taken a 12 month sabbatical and it is a real sense of achievement ... not in a ticking box way but having the impetus to utilise this opportunity and to feel that I am making the most of my life. It has been a time for me to think, share my ideologies with fellow travellers and plan not just for the short term but what I want to get most from life in the long term.

On a bus journey in Peru I was reading via the
Longform app an interesting article regarding a child with autism and how he dealt with it via Disney films. They say you read something to share ... hence a quote from Laverne, the gargoyle from “The Hunchback of Notre Dame.” “Quasi,” he says. “Take it from an old spectator. Life’s not a spectator sport. If watchin’s all you’re gonna do, then you’re gonna watch your life go by without you.”

The exciting thing is I am now only half way...

The 1st April is the start of the next arrival on Palmer Tours ... my mum...3 weeks of Buenos Aires, Igauzu Falls and Peru, which also means no hostels for 3 weeks! After that I'm going to Ecuador, Galápagos Islands, Brazil (for England first game), Venezuela, Columbia and Central America.

It's great to reflect on an amazing 6 months so far but also to now look forward to the next adventures I have installed ... to which an open invite is always there for any of you to come and join me.

Keep reading this blog for future installments ...

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Nice legs...lovely body!!

26/2/2014

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Luckily I don't get car sick otherwise these bus journeys could be a burden rather than a joy. Currently on an 10 hr bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago (Chile)...got a 22 hr one next week as a reminder of the distances to travel when I head up to the Atacama Desert in Northern Chile. The route today takes me over the Andes past the highest peak in the Americas called Aconcagua. At nearly 7000m it is an achievable climb and like Kilimanjaro is a non-technical climb...one for another trip!! Issue is it is overcast and raining so can't confirm how beautiful the scenery is!! Having said that the border proved a lengthy wait but interesting after watching the Fratelli's (Goonies reference) + Maradona lookalike try to smuggle numerous house hold goods into strict Chile...one of my worst border crossings of about 3 hrs. But before sharing stories about Mendoza check out the photos below from a recent flight in Patagonia from Calafate to Bariloche...one of the scenic commercial flights I have taken.

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View from the plane across the Andes...seat A proved fortuitous!!

Mendoza is a must stop for anyone on a trip to Argentina. The city has loads to offer but top of this list is wine...lots of red Malbec wine to enjoy. Also is known for its food quality, art and adventure sports. I participated in 3 of the 4...let's just say I was lazy for 4 days!!

"Nice legs" and "lovely body" are the crap jokes in my wine repertoire and not comments I get on my travels! After visiting 5 vineyards to sample the local vino (mainly Melbec) my rubbish banter didn't improve!! I know a little more about the wine than before but to fair just enjoyed the vineyards (bodega), food and company. Perhaps my nose/mouth just hasn't got the palette to taste all the flavours...no comments about my Roman nose!! Reminds of that gin advert sketch..."hmmm I'm getting oyster shells, lavender, chocolate...Rubbish!"

The settings weren't always as beautiful as Cape Town but the wine tours and tasting certainly matched Stellenbosch. The knowledgable staff meant I learned more about the process than before...also here many of the vineyards are relatively new due to the previous economic crisis's forcing bodega to be sold or left fallow...so the passionate owners often showed us around. We visited small and organic vineyards like Clos de Chacras, Carinae, Pulmary through to larger estates like Luigi Bosca and Escorihurela.

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Luigi Bosca bodega in the rain meant poor photos so can you guess which are photos of posters?!?
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I tried my best to drink all the bottles on offer but decided instead to enjoy the beautiful settings of the many bodega's

Also the food here is great and the abundance of steak is starting to show across the waist line! Went to a place called Ituzaingo which is a closed door restaurant...essentially a local has converted his house into a restaurant but still lives there. On offer was a taste journey of 7 courses around Argentina with accompanying wines. Nice idea when you have a nice place...not sure my Balham flat has the same wow factor! My foodie friend Nancy (who runs her own catering company in Sydney) picked the restaurants and bodega and choose winners every time!!

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Hmm steak, steak and more steak!!

A stroke of genius from Nancy was the flat we hired for the 4 nights. Meant we had more space, could cook and had a roof terrace for sundowners...felt like being a local and my old life back in London. Bumped into a friend Tiffany from Bariloche who we invited over for drinks and nibbles. 6 of us had a cracking and raucous night...good litmus test is getting a knock at 1am from an angry neighbour about the noise!! Like all parties numerous bottles of wine helped lubricate the conversation!! The issue as always is the head the morning after which appears to get worse with age!! But well worth it as learnt a new drinking game and how to beatbox...important life skills at the age of 33!! Cheats way to beatbox is to say "boots n cats n boots n cats..." over again and quickly and then throw in "cats n tits n cats n tits..." Once mastered that can mix it all up to sound like an average beat boxer. The beauty of travel is learning about life experiences and skills of others around the world...in our flat were people from London, Sydney, Georgia USA, Auckland.

Finally to ensure we tick the art box we stumbled across a Pablo Picasso art exhibition in town...always nice to throw in a bit of culture once in a while!

Nancy departs tomorrow and has been a great 3 weeks sharing my travel experience with her. Going back to Sydney means work for her and me to find a new Scrabble partner. I know that I am not ready for work yet...so much more to see!!

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Buena Vista Trekking Club

20/2/2014

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I remember fondly from my school days our 6th form geography field trips. It wasn't the case studies of glaciation in the Lake District; the rivers of Devon or the urban planning of Newcastle. No it was the fun times with your school mates away from home for a week...Lango and his mini-bus rally driving skills; Jonny Angel proudly wearing his Arsenal scarf through the Byker Estate in Newcastle; Rich and I making a lame attempt at covering the bus in loo paper; and of course trying to score booze or the late night run home from the pub due to the curfew!

Heading to Torres Del Paine National Park (This park was awarded the 8th Natural Wonder of the World...what happened to just 7?? Jealous Table Mountain got that accolade?!? Why stop at 8?!?) in Southern Chile suddenly brought back memory of my school studies. The area can be classified as a Physical Geography teachers wet dream! Whereas at school we had to visualise glaciers, rivers and diffluent col down here you can see glaciers and their devastating force with your own eyes. See the glacial lakes and rivers meandering through the valley. The twisting of the rock from the immense pressure of the tectonic plates millions of years ago.

This knowledge occasionally impressed my new travel partner (Nancy from Sydney from EY days) but was mainly met with a L across her forehead towards me..."LOSER!"

My early blogs of needing jaw dropping scenery to impress me certainly exceeded my expectations here. Anyway see the photos for yourself and marvel at the breath taking scenery. What the locals call Buena Vista! My aim was to seek green /azure lakes and they certainly fulfilled this in abundance.

Unfortunately this comes at a price...yup camping it up ("oohh Matron" Kenneth Williams) is a nightmare. Tents are not made for light sleepers and 6ft manly frames. I was able to pitch my tent ("aight" Ali G) to prove my manly skills but after that the fun disappears. Picturesque camp sites are appealing but lack of sleep out weighs this. Thus the option of getting up at 4am for sunrise was much more appealing than sleeping on the ground!! The views were well worth it although the cold air at the summit suddenly made the tent have the comfort of a 10 tog doona (sorry Oz influence from Nancy after a week...means duvet!)

Luckily we only did the light "W" walk so had to carry kit for just 2 days not 5. We decided to spend more time in El Chalten and have a hostel/cabana for day walks which is much more pleasant. I say "we" loosely as Nancy did all the prep and organising skills for her 3 weeks...the rule of any joining member of Palmer Tours is that of planner...and thanks to her spreadsheet (she is an accountant after all!! Don't worry no mention of accounting is made in public places...although embarrassingly all border post forms ask for our profession!) the plan is error free so far...so far!!! Like a good ex-auditor I am always checking things ;) Also Nancy brought the Ozzie sunshine with her as we had the only hot days Patagonia has seen all summer!!

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The only way city slickers do night walks...iPhone 5 torch and Bobble bottle. The llama was watching over us as our boat departed...supposedly a puma too but did not see any evidence!!
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Guess who worked out the colour isolation function on my camera...can get it to pick out my gingerafro and nothing else!!

After nearly getting stuck in Puerto Natales as all buses were full which is not ideal as not much going on we headed to Perito Moreno glacier in El Calafate back in Argentina (3rd of 5th border entries being madero Arg!). Our mode of transport was the Little Miss Sunshine mini-van...was part of a family trip but didn't care as all other avenues of taxi, hitching and flying had expired. And wow what a sight the glacier was!! Ok very touristy and set up for the masses but being that close to the glacier and seeing / hearing it crash around you is awesome...it moves by 2m per day!! Mother Nature at her best!! Surprisingly peaceful just watching it and seeing it drop bits into the blue glacial lake.

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A glacier that advances rather retreats...again was having a Kit-Kat when the ice fell so only the shock wave afterwards as evidence!

Not to be outdone El Chalten 3 hours away is where Mount Fitzroy (3405m) peaks above all those around it. A technically challenging summit that was not on my radar to complete as involves ropes and ice axes...although the trekking around it to the lakes and glaciers proved equally rewarding as the W walk and a great way to sign off trekking and no more sleeping in cold/uncomfortable tents in South Patagonia. Unfortunately after 4hrs up to the Fitz Roy view it was overcast but the view from the high street the following morning was equally beautiful.

So we camped for one night again and as the gentleman I took the tent and heavy items but I am not going to lug gas, pots and dried noddles...meant my back thanked me as I slept on the hard forest floor!! Unfortunately did mean we ate cold pizza for dinner whilst smelling the chicken noodles from next door! Winning Trivial Pursuit was the only consolation.

The Argentinians have managed to adapt Swiss style architecture to their trekking/activity areas albeit they are new towns whereas Chile prefers the tin shed option...Swiss style reminds me of Europe and more pleasing to the eye whereas Chile has perhaps the more authentic look. Hence Argentina is winning over Chile for favourite country so far!! Issue with Chalten is lack of internet...my Commodore 64 could load things quicker...rather sad though that dependent on wifi but booking hostels etc it is a key traveller requirement. The good thing about these little towns are the quality of the beer and steak...steak for 3 nights in a row followed by digestifs at the micro-brewer...don't worry made sure of token vegetable for a balanced diet!

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Mixture of sun and cloud didn't put us off exploring the mountains...unfortunately sunrise at Fitzroy was missed due to sleeping through alarm!!
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Our lunch spots along the way...beats the Hammersmith Flyover!!

And finally...had my first "what the F are you doing here" moment!! Yesterday after a double-take bumped into a friend Bridget from EY days in Chalten who is taking 6 months off...not such a small world after all!!

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P..P..Pick up a Penguin in P..P..Patagonia

6/2/2014

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Locals always say to me "oh you should go to the zoo" when arriving in a new city. I politely decline and say "I prefer the real thing". Now zoos are a great place to learn and serve a purpose but without wanting to sound like a spoilt brat nothing beats being in their habitat and you are effectively being the caged animal.

I have been lucky enough to see predators in the reserves of Kruger and Chobe; hear the Indri call from the Madagascar rainforest; swim with whale sharks in the Mozambique Channel...and that's just in the last 4 months. Previously unsuccessfully searched for tigers in India; scuba dived in the Great Barrier Reef; traced butterflies in Cameroon highlands of Malaysia and seen deer on my runs through Richmond Park! All experiences I have thoroughly enjoyed...and now the Valdes Peninsula in Eastern Argentina is no different. Seeing elephant seals, sea lions and penguins was great to experience even if was a shlep to get there!

More importantly when observing animals in the wild you would love to see the elephant seals fighting each other or the orcas beaching to hunt a seal...the reality is far less dramatic. BBC and NatG take months to get those shots so are great to show you what happens but unfortunately I was only here for a day...you would have to pack loads of Kit-Kat to catch those moments!

The reality for me is that seeing sea lions roaring, sleeping and waddling in the wild beats hands down seeing them in a cage at a zoo.

(Before you all start tearing my heart out I would like to point out that these are my opinions only and that of a ginger Attenborough wannabe with no skills in zoology, biology or botany...just an appetite for opening my eyes to the natural world)

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Armadillo!! Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside!! Sea lions roaring and playing but unfortunately with the heat play fight time was over and mainly nap time. The Mara - largest rodent (don't quote me!) looks like a rabbit on steroids.
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This place was so LUSH!! The welsh conquered this small part of Argentina so had a taste of home and afternoon tea! Accent of the staff were half Welsh and Argentinian...very odd! Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid visited Trelew in 1901.
So after the featureless landscape of the East I ventured West to Bariloche aka Lake District and was a refreshing change...not least it was holiday season for Argentines here so meant I could don the smart clobber for busting some moves at the local discotheque on the first night with the hostel!!

Best way to clear the hangover is to be an underprepared rambler so ventured to Llao Llao for a stroll with a local map that was so basic would be better placed at Disney World. Yup I got lost within 50metres!! So I clocked a woman who looked as lost as I was so in my worst Spanish asked for help and we ventured into the wilderness. She spoke as much English as my Spanish but had French as a middle ground...a poor solution hence kicking myself to improve my linguistic skills but meant I could improve my charade skills. Reminded me of the scene in Love Actually with Colin Firth flirting with his Portuguese helper except without the subtitles...unfortunately didn't end up with us jumping into the lake like the film but was a fun afternoon regardless.

So determined to make amendments I took the same map up the mountain (ski resorts look odd without snow!!) the following day and after a cable car up I descended over Fray with spectacular scenes (2000m down to 1000m...yup I cheated and went down!). Without wanting to sound like an arrogant show off again the challenges and vistas have a hard time to match Kilimanjaro. Although did make me realise I need to get a ski chalet when I get 6 matching balls...ski, trek, mountain bike, climb, golf and cycling all in the same place...all year round activity centre!!

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Buena Vista Bariloche Club! Hearing Woody from the trees was a bonus.
The area is famous for the 7 lake drive...ideal on a motor bike but none on offer so hired a car with a great bunch of travellers. We had a blast...exchanging stories, banter and the tunes blaring (reminded me of road trips from home). Only thing disappointing were the lakes. Unfortunately the overcast weather didn't do it justice but the Swiss style villages along the way added some character.
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More moody 7 lakes than bright crystal blue water it should be!! Damn you rain cloud!!
Like these activity towns you can always stay much longer and see more but with so much more to see on my route it's time to change countries and Chile beckons

(Waiting for a bus this morning saw a gentleman in a Harlequins rugby top. Thought he was English and thus local to me...turned out an Argentine. He thought the team was French...I furthered his disappointment by pointing out the London Eye silhouette on the top thus must be English. His sad face was enough for me to politely slip away.
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Hables Ingles?

29/1/2014

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So I write my next blog from the comfort of my 180* flat bed coach...As Chippy the maths extraordinaire will confirm you can't get flatter than 180*!! If you are going to be on a coach for 20 hours you may as well do it in style with duvet, TV and free booze!! National Express could learn a thing or two!



So now after leaving Buenos Aires the city has grown on me even further to the extent that it makes my top 5 cities I could live/work in (as you asked London, Chicago, Cape Town and Sydney make up the list!). Like London it continues to surprise...went for a walk and stumbled past the polo ground (capacity of Div1 footy club) into the racecourse...sitting in the sun nursing a hangover pretending to know what was going on was a great way to pass the time. Next door the local park with numerous roller bladers (that's how they deliver pizza!), skaters etc enjoying Buenos Aires and brought home great memories of Hyde Park...numerous parks/space is something some US cities I feel sometimes lack.

Nursing hangover really means knackered from my 5.30 am finish...still adjusting to this "lets meet for a drink at 11pm" lifestyle! Went to see Fuerzabruta the Argentine show touring in London...better and bigger production in London!

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Life in BA...from late night acrobatics shows to the Derby there is always something to entertain you!!
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Nothing says empire than Rhodesia biscuits! The local Empanadas...aka Cornish Pasty!! Hmmm Dolce de Leche!! Death by sugar overload!!
Well you will be pleased to know I have passed my Spanish course.. wouldn't say with flying colours but got a certificate so now my favourite phrase is "hable ingles?" which is followed by my hands gesturing a lot! Loads more to learn but at least picking up some vocab...most importantly the numbers!

Yesterday I went to the delightful colonial / smugglers town of Colonia in Uruguay (another country TICK!). Lovely old buildings and cars by the sea and more importantly pick up some USD to fund the next part of my trip. Met a German (blog in German but cool videos) guy on a BMW GS motorbike who I chatted to about his journey from New York..."well jel" as the kids say today!!

You may of noted "pick up some USD" from Uruguay...the Argentina Peso is up the creek without a paddle in sight! The official rate is 6.5 to £1....little did I know but the black market rate is 11.6 even to 13 last week. They love USD here and so no point using CC or ATM. Inflation is at a staggering 20%...my local cafe increased prices by 10% in the time I have been there. Meant going to a local illegal change house...although sounds dodgy when changing $580 you are not exactly Pablo Escobar laundering money!! Meant I also got ARP 6720 not 4160 via cambio!!

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All I needed to do was photoshop me into the car for the classic Uruguay shot!! Nice views from the lighthouse but the River Plate estuary was not inviting.
Few things noticed about South American living:

- why do people clap when the plane lands? It's their job!! Wish I got round of applause every time I got some accounts signed!

- TV presenters are hot!! Not like Loose Women...gets my attention even when I don't understand them!

- remember those coin holders around the neck as a kid??? Well they have them here if anyone needs a replacement...thought they went out in the 90's with bumbags (note my dad still uses his!) but apparently not down here!

- cracking meat here. Even the supermarkets sell whole cows! Last night steak with cow throat starters at Don Julio was top notch especially with the 2007 Malbec being quaffed! All for $50 (a lot of wine!) long may it continue!

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Hola!

22/1/2014

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Hola! Buenos Dias! Como esta? Right that's your lot from my classes this week...would like to say that you won't understand anymore, whereas the reality is I don't know much more!! To be fair not exactly renowned for my languages (thanks mum for not teaching us German!) so currently feel as though swimming with sharks with anvils around each ankle with the Mariana Trench below me!! Since when have I not looked danger in the face and shouted "Grrrr"!!

Anyway after a delightful flight with Iberia (managed to nab 4 seats in economy to the envy of Jose!) I landed in Buenos Aires close to midnight in 30C heat. Which after leaving London meant I quickly decanted out of my thermals much to the surprise of the arrivals gate who were awaiting their long lost cousin!! It hasn't relented although the occasional thunder shower has tempered the heat wave but doesn't stop me sleeping in front of a fan on full blast to prevent dehydration during the night. The tube one night was a gushing disaster at rush hour!!

(Maybe it's just me being observant/geek/well travelled but they drive on the right yet the tube runs on the left...you are probably thinking I am going mad but let me explain. You are walking on the right pavement towards town following traffic/buses and therefore if you jump down to the underground you would expect the line to follow...ohhh nooo...after going through the barrier I had to go back to the street, cross it and then down again.)

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Peron being a popular figure for what she did for the working classes.
BA is a cool city and my first experience of SA (South America for this purpose not South Africa) is that of a European City. White skin usually seen on fellow gingers and some height amongst the crowd...although believe this will change as I head north...I will transform into the leading role of Gullivers Travels! The city has a resemblance to Paris, Rome and Gotham City (been to all 3!) and the Paris reference is particularly true with all the dog do-do everywhere. Parisian's and   Porteno's all live in flats, have dogs that only walk around the block who save their do-do for the pavement! Now I am not a patron of the RSPCA but surely they like bit of a run around??? And please buy a scoop!!

The city itself has loads of sites and sounds to keep you busy both old and new. Politically related, Peron related, Malvinas related and general protesting related. Due to the troubled past with numerous coups the locals understandably like to protest and put graffiti everywhere to remind you...don't get me wrong they deserve to given what happened in the past. One bad story happened in the 70's with children disappearing and never to be seen...with their mothers protesting they got arrested as anymore than 4 together chatting was deemed a rebellion and so had to be broken up/arrested. To avoid this the mothers kept on walking in a circle in front of the president palace...still happens to this day every Thursday. Riot police are still on standby each day...apparently demonstrations happen daily!!

The people are friendly and been on many excursions to local water holes and restaurants...forgetting the travel tips from Rob I always ordered full portions of food which meant meat sweats were following my heat sweats on numerous occasions!! Much to my delight the water is apparently safe so have been brushing my teeth using a tap!! Yippee!!

Luckily I am returning to these shores twice in the next 2 months hence I am not in any hurry to see everything although wanting to make sure PalmerTours can put in a good performance for my guests...got to survive off the tips!!



Anyway new adventures beckons with Uruguay for 2 days to see Montevideo (Monte Carlo of SA) plus pick up US dollars before heading South to Bariloche (Lake District) and Patagonia.

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See they are more fond of the Italian than the English! Graffiti being a popular expressive art in BA.
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