Palmertours is a multi-cultural non discriminatory charitable organisation and that is why I have opened the door for the first time for those with bingo wings, cankles and suspected hairy upper lips...yup Palmertours also caters for the older generation...and I mean old!! Now obviously my mother who joined me this week for 3 weeks doesn't meet any of these criteria but I was willing to make an exception.

So looking like a New Yorker (smart dress with sneakers) mum and I ventured from neighbourhood to neighbourhood seeking out all the major sites Buenos Aires has to offer. From La Boca in the South with its colourful housing to Tigre in the North with its boat houses and waterways. Fantastic effort as ever from my mum who didn't complain...much...and just needed the occasional coffee as a pick me up. As this was my 3rd visit to the city I was able to navigate with ease but this time actually go into the museums and galleries rather than just a fleeting visit. The city has enough to see for 4 days but no more and luckily our timing coincided with the Madres protest on Thursday who are still looking for their children taken under the dictatorship regime. What was also nice to explore were the numerous antique shops with old Louis Vuitton trunks, Harley bikes and pinball machines...could see myself opening up a shop in Notting Hill next to Hugh Grant book shop!

For me the plus side came in staying in a hotel...free towels...TV in the room...sharing with a non-snorer (most of the time)...and more importantly unlimited breakfast every morning. Like a true backpacker this is red rag to a bull so made sure our breakfast sitting was 30+mins to last the day!

Our aim most nights was to find a decent hotel bar for a drink before a nice slap meal...well steak and red wine essentially as that is what the Argentinian's do so well. Drinking in a Philippe Starck designed hotel was a good start and followed this by a top steak house Las Lilas...only issue we didn't have enough cash with us as credit cards are pointless as costs 30%-40% more...luckily no washing up or a quick sprint was involved but dessert consisted of a McFlurry rather than something covered in Dulce De Leche.

Back home I enjoy a bit of culture now and then whether theatre or art and thus made sure this was ticked off during these four days as not done much over the past 6 months. Visited a Mario Testino exhibition; watched a tango show in the famous Cafe Tortoni and the highlight the opera Caligula at the majestic Teatro Colon. Worth mentioning the opera...wonderful setting...but the opera was in German with Spanish subtitles (Just like watching Apocalypto in Peru eh Dave) so didn't understand a word...plus being an ENO production the show had a modern twist with a lot of nudity!! something the BA crowd didn't enjoy as many seats emptied at half time.

We headed north by plane...another advantage of Palmertours does SAGA...Iguazu Falls voted one of the natural 7 wonders of the world (along with Table Mountain) and it certainly didn't disappoint. Wow what a amazing magical place. On this trip have been to the Victoria Falls albeit in dry season but these falls blew me away. To go to the Devils Throat you need to walk a 1km over the river and the excitement builds as you get closer...you feel the spray...you hear the crashing water...then when you arrive and see it in full flow it is magical. The place also has an Avatar feel due to the moss and plant life around the falls.

We continued around the falls as there are around 250 to see and by the late afternoon it was time to do the Great Adventure tour...15 min boat ride in and out of the falls. Some wore swimming costumes and goggles - extreme...we were more casual which we later regretted as you don't get wet you get DRENCHED! Ponchos and waterproofs don't even work...the boat drives into the falls so all around you is water. Apart from having a girl scream in my ear the whole time it was awesome and a great thrill and after wiping the mascara off we both looked semi presentable coming off the boat although the squelch with every step gave the game away as to where we had been. Our reward was a drink at the on-site hotel overlooking the falls although had to act like we owned the place as we continued to squelch through the lobby to the bar!

The next day we planned to go to Brazil to see the falls or the animal sanctuary but as on holiday we sat by the pool and just chilled. Given mum was asleep until lunchtime sometimes you forget that guests are here on holiday and with an intense 10 days to come in Peru and the Inca Trail recharging the batteries was just what the doctor ordered.

So I write my next blog from the comfort of my 180* flat bed coach...As Chippy the maths extraordinaire will confirm you can't get flatter than 180*!! If you are going to be on a coach for 20 hours you may as well do it in style with duvet, TV and free booze!! National Express could learn a thing or two!



So now after leaving Buenos Aires the city has grown on me even further to the extent that it makes my top 5 cities I could live/work in (as you asked London, Chicago, Cape Town and Sydney make up the list!). Like London it continues to surprise...went for a walk and stumbled past the polo ground (capacity of Div1 footy club) into the racecourse...sitting in the sun nursing a hangover pretending to know what was going on was a great way to pass the time. Next door the local park with numerous roller bladers (that's how they deliver pizza!), skaters etc enjoying Buenos Aires and brought home great memories of Hyde Park...numerous parks/space is something some US cities I feel sometimes lack.

Nursing hangover really means knackered from my 5.30 am finish...still adjusting to this "lets meet for a drink at 11pm" lifestyle! Went to see Fuerzabruta the Argentine show touring in London...better and bigger production in London!

Well you will be pleased to know I have passed my Spanish course.. wouldn't say with flying colours but got a certificate so now my favourite phrase is "hable ingles?" which is followed by my hands gesturing a lot! Loads more to learn but at least picking up some vocab...most importantly the numbers!

Yesterday I went to the delightful colonial / smugglers town of Colonia in Uruguay (another country TICK!). Lovely old buildings and cars by the sea and more importantly pick up some USD to fund the next part of my trip. Met a German (blog in German but cool videos) guy on a BMW GS motorbike who I chatted to about his journey from New York..."well jel" as the kids say today!!

You may of noted "pick up some USD" from Uruguay...the Argentina Peso is up the creek without a paddle in sight! The official rate is 6.5 to £1....little did I know but the black market rate is 11.6 even to 13 last week. They love USD here and so no point using CC or ATM. Inflation is at a staggering 20%...my local cafe increased prices by 10% in the time I have been there. Meant going to a local illegal change house...although sounds dodgy when changing $580 you are not exactly Pablo Escobar laundering money!! Meant I also got ARP 6720 not 4160 via cambio!!

Few things noticed about South American living:

- why do people clap when the plane lands? It's their job!! Wish I got round of applause every time I got some accounts signed!

- TV presenters are hot!! Not like Loose Women...gets my attention even when I don't understand them!

- remember those coin holders around the neck as a kid??? Well they have them here if anyone needs a replacement...thought they went out in the 90's with bumbags (note my dad still uses his!) but apparently not down here!

- cracking meat here. Even the supermarkets sell whole cows! Last night steak with cow throat starters at Don Julio was top notch especially with the 2007 Malbec being quaffed! All for $50 (a lot of wine!) long may it continue!

Hola! Buenos Dias! Como esta? Right that's your lot from my classes this week...would like to say that you won't understand anymore, whereas the reality is I don't know much more!! To be fair not exactly renowned for my languages (thanks mum for not teaching us German!) so currently feel as though swimming with sharks with anvils around each ankle with the Mariana Trench below me!! Since when have I not looked danger in the face and shouted "Grrrr"!!

Anyway after a delightful flight with Iberia (managed to nab 4 seats in economy to the envy of Jose!) I landed in Buenos Aires close to midnight in 30C heat. Which after leaving London meant I quickly decanted out of my thermals much to the surprise of the arrivals gate who were awaiting their long lost cousin!! It hasn't relented although the occasional thunder shower has tempered the heat wave but doesn't stop me sleeping in front of a fan on full blast to prevent dehydration during the night. The tube one night was a gushing disaster at rush hour!!

(Maybe it's just me being observant/geek/well travelled but they drive on the right yet the tube runs on the left...you are probably thinking I am going mad but let me explain. You are walking on the right pavement towards town following traffic/buses and therefore if you jump down to the underground you would expect the line to follow...ohhh nooo...after going through the barrier I had to go back to the street, cross it and then down again.)

BA is a cool city and my first experience of SA (South America for this purpose not South Africa) is that of a European City. White skin usually seen on fellow gingers and some height amongst the crowd...although believe this will change as I head north...I will transform into the leading role of Gullivers Travels! The city has a resemblance to Paris, Rome and Gotham City (been to all 3!) and the Paris reference is particularly true with all the dog do-do everywhere. Parisian's and   Porteno's all live in flats, have dogs that only walk around the block who save their do-do for the pavement! Now I am not a patron of the RSPCA but surely they like bit of a run around??? And please buy a scoop!!

The city itself has loads of sites and sounds to keep you busy both old and new. Politically related, Peron related, Malvinas related and general protesting related. Due to the troubled past with numerous coups the locals understandably like to protest and put graffiti everywhere to remind you...don't get me wrong they deserve to given what happened in the past. One bad story happened in the 70's with children disappearing and never to be seen...with their mothers protesting they got arrested as anymore than 4 together chatting was deemed a rebellion and so had to be broken up/arrested. To avoid this the mothers kept on walking in a circle in front of the president palace...still happens to this day every Thursday. Riot police are still on standby each day...apparently demonstrations happen daily!!

The people are friendly and been on many excursions to local water holes and restaurants...forgetting the travel tips from Rob I always ordered full portions of food which meant meat sweats were following my heat sweats on numerous occasions!! Much to my delight the water is apparently safe so have been brushing my teeth using a tap!! Yippee!!

Luckily I am returning to these shores twice in the next 2 months hence I am not in any hurry to see everything although wanting to make sure PalmerTours can put in a good performance for my guests...got to survive off the tips!!



Anyway new adventures beckons with Uruguay for 2 days to see Montevideo (Monte Carlo of SA) plus pick up US dollars before heading South to Bariloche (Lake District) and Patagonia.