Palmer tours ... the world
  • My journey
  • About me
  • Southern Africa
  • South America
  • Central America

Finale in South America

3/8/2014

1 Comment

 
Picture
4 beaches = 4 stunning sunsets

Northern Colombia was the final leg on my South American adventure...next stop Panama and Central America travelling in style by sail boat (another mode of transport tick!)

Northern Colombia is blessed with nice colonial towns and fishing villages. The area was key for the Spanish years ago sending treasure back to Spain...the pirate (as the locals call him) Sir Francis Drake also fought in the area.

The area is also famous for its beaches and Tayrona NP. Not necessarily the tranquil secluded beaches i was expecting but they got better towards Palomino. Nothing i like more than getting hassled every 5 mins for a drink, an ice-cream or a massage! It was great to chill after partying in Cartagena and catch up on some tome reading. Highlight for me were the sunsets...as majority of the beaches faced west cocktail or beer o'clock was an absolute joy after a hard day of chilling on the beach. Also managed to sneak in some animal watching with some cheeky monkeys on the beach throwing me mangos. Unfortunately on the to-do list for next time are the mountains in the region...one of the few places in the world where you can be sitting in snow and look down to the beaches. Also wanted to explore by the motorbike on offer but flip flops and shorts are not the desired kit of choice with Colombian drivers!! Oh well can't do it all the first time!!

Tayrona NP is a worthwhile stop as has some very picturesque beaches and ruins. Did a 5 hour walk in my Havianas over mountains and cant shout out how good they are as footwear...4 yrs old and still going strong! Hoping that with my 23,000 views of PalmerTours site Mr Haviana will be sending me a few pairs for a shameless plug...did i say i also like Omega watches and Aston Martin's!

Also dipped my toes in the Caribbean Sea (which has to be the warmest in the world) with some scuba gear. Been 12 years since the Great Barrier Reef so needed a refresher before the stunning dive spots of Honduras next month. After forgetting all hand signals plus how the kit operates for the first dive went down to 32m for some Moray Eels which were cool...realised that although great seeing the fish i just love pretending to be Superman and doing spins!! Sorry no photos of my superhero pose as awaiting Santa Marta dive school to post.

Picture
Colonial rule provides some lovely character to the seaside towns
Picture
Beach life...issue being strong currents and waves so not the relaxing swim I was expecting
Picture
From the death bed of Simon Bolivar to the washing of school clothes by the river...every corner provides another window on life in South America both old and new

Now those who are geographically savvy will know that to get from Colombia to Panama is tough. The Darien Gap (land crossing) is very difficult due to the jungle and gorilla activity (not the hairy banana eating kind!). This is the only place between Alaska and Ushuaia where the Panamericana Highway doesn't exist. So options are flying, quick speedboat near to the border or as I did by sail boat from Cartagena to Panama. A 200 nautical miles journey of open sea for 5 nights with the sail of 36 hrs and 3 nights on the tropical San Blas islands. For some is a relaxing boat trip or in my case a sailing adventure!! It's meant to be

My original plan was a catamaran for stability. This was fully booked so moved to an 8 berth monohull that didn't turn up. So finally ended up on the 35ft Northern Drifter with one very chilled captain and 5 travellers...great bunch of people as it turned out...in fact an Englishman, Irishman and Scotsman...except couldn't remember any decent jokes!!

Anyway back to the adventure...arrived quayside with the customary slab of beers and bottle of rum. Before getting on the boat our captain offers us a "smoke" which is always a good sign for the alertness needed for the days ahead!! We get on board and off we go with the bright lights of Cartagena behind us. I had to ask where the life jackets were and general boat awareness. We had a lightning storm to the port (left) side but wind from the starboard (right) side so safe...or so we thought. It all started going Pete Tong!! Wind changed direction so the lightning storm was heading towards us. The engine broke so purely under sail power. I was throwing up my pizza within 2 hours (and I thought I had sea legs!! All those years aboard Miss Flexi didn't pay off). The navigation lights on top of the mast failed when in a busy shipping lane. Plus we had to do watch for 2 hour stints through the night to allow our captain to sleep/rest...or in our case "smoke" more! Lets just say he took phrase "sailing the high seas" a bit too literally...night 1 was an eye opener!!

Due to no engine and the wind dying our supposedly 36 hour sail turned into 50 hours. So you can sense my relief when we arrived to the protection and paradise of the San Blas Islands. Don't get me wrong I loved the crossing when not ill...the plankton at night lit up the sea...we caught a large tuna off the back so had lovely steaks for breakfast...didn't have the engine noise for hours so could relax and get to know the crew...plus our captain had bought some delicious food for our trip no doubt for his munchies!!

The San Blas Islands are beautiful as the photos will show. Loads of small islands in crystal clear water with some great snorkelling spots in reefs with rays, eels and turtles. The indigenous Kuna people make an existence from fishing and was great to buy their catch of the day (crayfish, crab and snapper) or in our case barter with them for a "smoke". Like all these remote places you think you are isolated but you can still get TV and mobile reception...in fact the Kuna's were bizarrely watching a skiing programme!

So in conclusion had a great trip/experience and met some cool travellers. Issue is you all pay the same price of $500 regardless of which boat you are on. Due to only one captain/crew it was left to us to cook (I avoided as have barely cooked for a year!) and wash up at all times which for other boats wasn't required...so less relaxing. I have realised that if I was to do this again or buy a boat it needs to be at least 80ft catamaran to stand a strong chance of not being ill!!

Picture
After leaving the night skyline of Cartagena our captain and crew spent the next 6 days sailing the high seas
Picture
Our boat and destination
Picture
James Bond training school day 1...fall over on beach whilst walking in fins!! Luckily the wreck wasn't our boat!!
Picture
San Blas deservedly have a good reputation for area of outstanding beauty
1 Comment

Miss Venezuela

12/7/2014

0 Comments

 
PictureMiss Venezuela!!
So the second reason for choosing to come to Venezuela is the hard fact that it is the only country to top the Miss World contest with 6 wins and it's in 2nd place overall in the Miss Universe competition with 7 wins. The first reason was to meet some of my family but more on that later.

Like any respectable male I first went in search of Miss Venezuela and came within sniffing distance of her apparently. At the Angel Falls I was in a truck and saw some beautiful girls passing by to whom I gave my best "Hola Bonita!" eyes. To which they all replied with their "Get lost you weirdo" eyes and I don't think my drooling helped me much! Unfortunately they didn't hop on our bus and our guide informed us later that one of them was Miss World ... sooo close! Not to be put off I then continued my search and eventually got lucky in the Orinoco Delta as you can see in my photo on the left ... meeting Miss World 1938! Sat behind me is Mr Universe 1939. It's a romantic story of them both fleeing the limelight together for the jungle hence the happy smiles when I asked for a photo!!

As for Venezuela itself despite the recent bad press it is a beautiful country with friendly people and with the US$$$ it makes it an affordable place to visit. On the official currency market of 6B:$1 it has the second highest Big Mac index price of $7.15 (after Norway). Yet on the black market of B70:$1 it then has the lowest. $100 is B7000 in B50 bills...so I always looked like a player! Due to the poor government and availability of dollars to buy imports the country is in an economic turmoil - hence the huge disparity in rates. Nobody has money to buy goods so a lot of the shops are empty see the picture inside Zara below! Also supermarkets are rationing their food with 2 chickens per week etc. cars queue for 2 days to get new tyres and used tyres are more expensive than new tyres due to simple supply and demand. You queue in Venezuela for everything from banks, ATM's, bread, tills and petrol ... I remember seeing Russians queuing for goods years ago and couldn't believe it and here I am seeing and unfortunately experiencing it first hand. The only good thing is that they queue properly like a Brit ... the Indian way of pushing in could get nasty! The worst problems have been with medical equipment - patients families head to Colombia to buy surgical supplies so that their operations can happen! People are not staring at your designer handbag but that you have milk and sugar in your shopping bags - this season's 'must have' item! The other crazy thing in all of this is the cost of gasoline. My car holds 60L and costs me $130 to fill up in London. Here it would cost me U$1 at the official rate and U$0.1 at the black market rate. It's practically free! The issue is that car parts and oil are all imported so protests go on about availability of these items to keep your car running. American flights into the country have now reduced from 10 per day to 1. I have been lucky enough to spend some time here with my cousins Marisol and Gilberto to understand and see what life is like in Venezuela. Also for those living in Caracas not only can you not buy milk but you also have the highest murder rate in the world to deal with. The blacked out windows on cars (including front screen) are to hide you from hijackers not protect you from the sun. Also if you run your own business you also run the risk of it being nationalised. In Margarita, boat company's, hotels and restaurants are all randomly taken and given back to 'Chavistas'. We've have already seen what happened in Zimbabwe when things were nationalised and it didn't always go that well!

Despite all of this I have had a great time here and wish I could spend more in Venezuela. World News has highlighted political and violent issues and in some cases you can't really go out after 8pm as it's unsafe yet I have been to some cool places over last few weeks and hardly scratched the surface. I write all this uncomfortable stuff from the comfort of my cousin's air conditioned apartment drinking a lovely Chilean Chardonnay so I am seeing everything here through rose tinted glasses bought with my US Dollars. But other travellers I met have also said the same things. Don't take my word for it and come visit, but be quick before all the goods fly off the shelves!
Picture
Life in Venezuela...shortages for your new Zara outfit...at least it is cheap to drive to the nightclubs!
As I said the main reason for coming to Venezuela has been to meet some cousins for the first time ever. A brief family history ... My Opa's (grandfather) name is Helmut Frederick Wilheim Von Seggern. During WWII he left Germany and went to South West Africa (a German colony now Namibia) and in South Africa was then interned by the British Army as a POW. Upon the war ending he then moved back to SW Africa. He had 3 girls with my Oma one of which is my mother (Monica). My Opa's brother Elu instead came to Venezuela and strangely also had 4 girls - the possible end of the Von Seggern name! My grandparents last came to Venezuela 50 years ago and no other Von Seggern (from my side) has come to visit until now! I wanted to reconnect with my cousins as communication has been very limited as well as wanted to learn more about the Von Seggern family history. My fabulous hosts Marisol and Gilberto whom I have never met have been amazing (they have 2 sons the same age as my brother and I and they are both accountants - it must be in the Von Seggern blood as my Opa also had his own accounting practice!) Like a true Von Seggern we dropped off my bags and then stocked the cooler box with rum and tonic...my new favorite drink and then went for a drive around the island. After queuing for 20 mins for bread at a supermarket we then needed another rum and tonic to get us home - as I said the perfect hosts! We have talked about the family, local views on life in Venezuela and also tasted the wonderful local cuisine. Like other Von Seggern's Marisol is a great cook making me homemade arepas, urchin and mango dessert. I will be trying a few new recipes on unsuspecting guests when I'm back in October! I have also spoken to many of my cousins and hope now that this is the start of  correspondence and visits in the future ... the beauty of Facebook! It has been a great way to end my Venezuela adventure.

Check out a photo below of my grandfather ... also a ginger (but with a full head of hair) any likeness???

Picture
The invite said blue!
Have you read "The Lost World" by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle...a "Romancing The Stone" / Indiana Jones style adventure? The mountain portrayed in that is said to be Roraima and was my first stop and impression of Venezuela. It was my task over 6 days to summit it at 2810m, survey the top and return in one piece ... without any treasure, although there are crystal fields on top but its illegal to take any. After ignoring the warnings about being rainy season, the cold and puri-puri black flies that are worse than Mosquitos I set off with 8 others across beautiful savannahs and rivers before ascending through jungle and waterfalls to the flat top.

Camp life: Despite the rainy season we got lucky with mostly sunshine when walking. With warnings of cold I didn't take thermals so summit camp was spent drinking rum and zip-locked in my sleeping bag. As for the puri puri...they take no prisoners and go for all out attack! I got 10 bites (often bleeding) on my right foot within 15 mins as I forgot to spray below the ankles ... fellow trekkers legs and arms looked like a voodoo doll! Smaller and quieter than mosquitos they are the silent destroyers, the ninjas of the biting insect world! Otherwise camp life was good with good guides, good food and good company from all parts of the globe.

It was a visually stunning trek as every day you saw the flat top mountain in various shades of colour depending on sun or cloud. Had to cross numerous rivers to reach the camps with the final push walking underneath waterfalls with all your gear ... my trainers were soaked! The flat top and vistas to the Gran Sabana (including Guyana - known as the Zone Of Reclamation on Venezuela maps after us Brits took it and it's now independent) below was well worth it. On the top numerous pools, caves, quartz fields and unusual rock formations gave it a moon like landscape.

As I have mentioned before if you see me in a tent you have permission to kill me (as Sir Steve Redgrave once said) as I realised after night one why I hate camping! A small tent on hard ground. The only small print to my death sentence is that if I have a comfortable sleeping mat and big enough tent for my 6ft frame then I will do it. Bruised hips and sleepless nights were not what I signed up for.

Picture
The Lost World!
Picture
The trekking crew tackling the rivers and waterfalls
Picture
Camp Life!
Picture
Yes I do look like a Smurf but a very cool Smurf!!
Picture
Some interesting flora and animals to grab your attention
Thanks to a gold prospector called Jimmy Angel flying around Venezuela the worlds tallest waterfall was discovered in 1937 when he crash landed on top of the Tepui near to the falls. Today illegal gold prospectors are still in the area but the main pull to Canaima are the falls.

There is only one way in and out and that is by plane...in my case a 6 seater Cessna for 50 mins. The landing is awesome as it comes over Canaima Lagoon...a series of smaller falls that provided an extra bonus to the area. These falls were super cool as we were able to walk behind them and see/feel the ferociousness and power of the water falling just c.30m...think what Angel Falls would feel like at 979m!

My first night provided much entertainment as I made friends with a British/US lad from the plane (fresh off on his 7 week hols and super keen for beers!). To set the scene the isolated town has 2500 residents for tourism and booze cannot be brought in as the locals get super lashed! There are 3 bars that we found although this discounts the airport (landing strip) as closes at 5.30. At the end of the crawl around the lake we found the main bar with the promise of 5 girls but it had just locals ... very very drunk locals. Turns out they were all local gold miners so rich (comparatively speaking) and bored on a Wednesday night! 2 of them could hardly stand yet didn't fall over ... I think the Latin dancing ability prevents that! Many Westerners came in and turned around but Paddy and I persisted along with another couple from the lodge. It soon emerged into a scene from "Shaun Of The Dead" but with drunk zombies. They spoke to us but we didn't understand a word. They also wouldn't leave us alone, our only escape was to pretend to be drunk zombies and blend in and walk away to the other side of the bar. This worked for a while until they caught on - finally the lights went out annoyingly without telling us Last Orders! The worst dude was thrown into a boat; another taken into the woods to sleep it off; and another simply lying down on the dance floor.

What is interesting about Canaima that surprised the Venezuela tourists is that you can use your iPhone to guide your journey home at 11pm and not get mugged/shot ... it can't happen anywhere else in Venezuela. Canaima has no police and relies on the local chief for mediating between the families.

Now the highlight is obviously the Angel falls and the only way there is a dug out canoe paddle for 4 hours upstream through rapids! Followed by an hour walk to the viewpoint and further 30 mins to the pools. This gave the adventure an Indiana Jones feel (turns out Harrison Ford has visited!). It was well worth it and what a sight seeing the falls with the longest interrupted drop of 807m. Even better when sharing with only 20 tourists all afternoon. The advantage of Venezuela right now! Chilling (and the water was cold) in the waters admiring the falls has to be up there with top things to do. We spent the night in hammocks by the river and got up for sunrise to admire the beauty of the falls once again. (Don't tell the Venezuelans but the Iguazu Falls tops the Palmer waterfall index!)

Picture
View into Canaima from the plane
Picture
A new mode of transport for this trip!
Picture
Canaima Falls
Picture
Getting up close and personal with the Canaima Falls
Picture
The adventurous boat ride to the falls
Picture
The majestic Angel Falls
Picture
Brings new meaning to the word Jacuzzi when under the Angel Falls
Next stop Orinoco Delta for 2 days. Same same but different to Amazon. An untouched more authentic jungle area than the Amazon although I did see fewer animals. As an experience it was great as I stayed in a quiet camp with max 3 of us. My private hut with open sides looked out onto the river. It was a lovely tranquil camp and the surrounding community huts gave it more of a remote, jungle feel. I saw parrots, howler monkeys, dolphins, toucans, bats, lizards and other birds. Tried again unsuccessfully to catch piranha but did eat some ... had bit of a bite!

Only downside to the jungle and more so than previous jungle areas have been the Mosquitos! I sprayed and wore long sleeves but these are super Mosquitos who bite through clothing...I reckon they are the SBS (Navy Seals if you're a yank) of the mosquito world - so my back and legs look blotchy and itch like a bad case of scabies! How do they get you between the fingers and toes when you're covered with 100% deet??

Picture
Jungle Life...my room had a nice view although the Mosquitos enjoyed it even more!
Picture
Some of the birds on show! Plus a few dolphins.
My final stop was Margarita Island in Eastern VZ and near to Trinidad and Tobago. A tax free island like Channel Islands (UK) or Canary Islands (Spain). A beautiful island with amazing beaches, sunsets and importantly warm seas. My aim apart from visiting family has been to stand up at kitesurfing...I ran out of wind last time in Egypt. This time luckily I did it! Although there is no photo evidence. I was meant to have more time on the board but the wind died so you'll have to take my word for it!

Picture
Isla de Margarita
0 Comments

    Archives

    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    October 2013

    Categories

    All
    4x4
    Africa
    Animals
    Argentina
    Beach
    Bolivia
    Brazil
    Buenavista
    Buena Vista
    Buenavista803f66dc2f7489d37c9a7e0b5d2480a38f8d05c0
    Buenos Aires
    Buenovista
    Bueno Vista
    Bueno Vista
    Buenovista0f18e3b0176868b7c9660d2aa58bd1dde11f6009
    BV
    BV.
    Centralamerica
    Chile
    Colombia
    Ecuador
    Glaciers
    Hmm Red Wine
    Hmm Red Wine
    Hmm Steak
    Hmm Steak
    Inca Ruins
    IR
    Jungle
    NHE
    NHE.
    Nohabloespanol
    No Hablo Espanol!
    Nohabloespanole768584c5eabbe773a63e819758cca65d6d8cce8
    Panama
    Patagonia
    Peru
    Santiago
    South America
    South America
    Street Art
    Travel Fail
    Trekking
    Uruguay
    Venezuela

    RSS Feed


Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.
Photo used under Creative Commons from Alicia Nijdam-Jones