After toasting mum a safe journey home with a Pisco Sour it was back to travelling with a bump as my overnight bus to the mountains had a screaming baby one row in front!

Huaraz is a standard town at the foot of Peru's largest section of Andes. As it was Easter weekend had a nice procession on the Sunday but the main pull is trekking to the various glaciers and lakes which didn't disappoint as you can see from the photos.

Highlight for me was the Canon Del Pato or Duck Canyon. Decided to venture by bike alone from Caraz along a very scenic downhill (thankfully) mainly tarred road. As in a valley you can't get lost! In true Brit style I donned my hat, slopped on my sun cream and headed out into the midday sun with not enough water!! A gentle meander for 39km ended with the last 12km in the Canon Del Pato. Armed with my crappy head torch I cycled through the 35 tunnels getting covered in mud and with each tunnel running the gauntlet with potential on-coming traffic. By the end having gone through dust, mud and tar I felt like a cartoon villain covered in all sorts of materials.

My reward was a quiet village by the river which due to traffic restrictions for the return journey was my home for 4 hours...so I plonked myself in the only restaurant to kill time. The restaurant had no menu so my option was only meat; it was served by "the only gay in the village" Little Britain character; had Peruvian Strictly Come Dancing starring 12 Anne Widdecomb's to keep me entertained...the only saving grace was the owner like football so enjoyed Chelsea 0-0 draw in Champ League!! As you can tell the 4 hours passed pretty quickly just observing Peruvian life.

I decided to make one final stop on my Inca / Peruvian culture tour at Chachapoyas back in the jungle (ish). After a while archaeological sites get samey just like in Thailand and India with temples. Still good but sometimes need a change of scenery.

Chachapoyas is a neat little town with these old houses and balconies similar to Cuzco. After a bus travel fail over 24 hrs to get there i checked into a single room for $9...bargain! Just what i needed as was tired and smelly!

The pull factor here is Kuelap a sort of Machu Picchu but built 900yrs before. Hence although set upon the hill and a defensive fortress it lacked that WOW factor of Machu. It didn't help that it was raining...but still impressive given when it was built.

The other reason people visit is for the statues/tombs/sarcophagus of the Chachapoyas people placed upon shear limestone cliffs around 1200AD...they would destroy the paths once placed to avoid thieving. Unfortunately as limestone meant erosion over the years and so loads of fallen and broken...even a few bones lying around the place!!

Prior to this stop were some caves where we donned some wellies as turned out to be very sticky mud...a few came face to face with it! Again the caves used to be a cemetery but also a cavern of stalag "might touch the ceiling" and stalactites. 




Prior to going into the caves i had an "old people" moment which at 3* yrs is bad news but now see what my mum's friends must go through on a daily basis! We were waiting to pay entry and one of the group picked up a broomstick...

In my head i was oh "Bedknobs and Broomsticks" or a witch from "Wizard of Oz"...

Group member said oh its a "something 2000" (something = he said something but didn't register)

I was like "uh"

He said "you know quiditch"

I was like "uh"

He said "Harry Potter"

I was like "ohhh" after which i found the nearest seat, put some comfortable velcro shoes on, lit my pipe and read the back section of the Daily Mail deciding which pair of elasticated trousers to buy next!

After another long bus journey (3 buses in total) i am finally at Mancora beach for some rest and relaxation. Was last at the beach at Xmas and need to have some time to recharge the batteries...assume I have no sympathy!! Staying at the party hostel in town which reminded me why beaches are a good place...lots of scantily clad young ladies everywhere meant I had to jump into the pool like Kevin and Perry!!

Quick annoyances from the bus journey. Reading "Captain Philips" about the Somali pirates and as I jumped on the bus guess what film starts...and for the first time not dubbed and in English!!...alas despite my speed reading I finished the book as the film closing credits came up. Secondly when people jump onto buses (and planes) why can they not find their seat?? This guy was looking for seat 56487..his luggage ticket number!

Anyway the beach is nice and the water warm and after a lame attempt at surfing decided to go body boarding which I also failed at...I realise that I am not a water baby. What I did realise I am good at is beer pong! My team made the final but couldn't make the final cup which meant drinking copious amounts of beer and a blood bomb (don't know nor want to know what's in it!). The same night I got a complement of looking 25 yrs old although my smile was removed when someone else said "you're not an accountant are you?" What?? Do I have a badge on? Is it really that obvious? You would have thought being away for 7 months I would have lost it!

As I said in my blog title I am off to Ecuador tonight but thanks to my stupidity I have also signed up for the Lima marathon on 18 May. Need to somehow get race fit in just over 2 weeks...so ventured out for an 1.5hr run which apart from getting chased by dogs was a relatively successful run. Issue being not many training opportunities over coming weeks so won't be getting a PB but will have ticked off a marathon in South America...will be 4 continents down!! In my 40th year plan to run the Antarctic marathon...tick off my 7th continent and RETIRE!!

The last 10 days in Peru have been a blast with one major factor being that I have been living the high life thanks to my mum. You know you are in for luxury when someone meets you at the airport with a sign and your name...You don't get that at bus stations and hostels!! Every airport or train station there was a rep awaiting our arrival...every morning there was a taxi picking us up for another tour...have not had to plan or think or lift a finger and has been awesome...a taste of the high life!! This is down to Llama Tours who have done a great job in organising a top trip. The nice thing about this section of my trip has been the numerous flights and luxurious train rides compared to the uncomfortable bus seats.

Another comforting factor has been the great people we have met along the way. Our fellow travellers have been of a mature nature but have had the same energy and enthusiasm to travel as both mum and I. Sharing Machu Picchu with Ian and Heather and the Andean Explorer/Puno with Wendy and John has showed me that travel later in life isn't about cruises and socks n sandels...although John's Moon Boots to dinner was a step too far!! We had some giggles and fun times not least helped by numerous Pisco Sour's...my mum being the instigator with 10.30am our earliest drink!!

Our daily routine was to find the nicest hotel and have a Pisco Sour to relax from the day activities...our first night involved Cuy a local Guinea Pig...very meaty taste like pigeon...luckily saw them alive the next day otherwise might of had second thoughts to eating pet Snuffles!

Travelling with your mum does create some awkward situations...one bel-boy thought we were on our honeymoon...Awkward...then someone on the Andean Explorer didn't believe we were mother/son...think they thought I was older than I look!!

We started our Peru trip in Cuzco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. Our tour guide Yashira was a gold mine of information and facts that explained life in Peru during the Inca times. But what really blew me away were the ruins and architectural designs of the Inca people to make these temples, terraces and palaces. The various blocks of rock fitted perfectly with one another so much so that you couldn't fit a piece of paper between them...all made by hand and when you see the terrain you appreciate how hard it was to create these amazing sites. You also have to remember that the altitude in this area is between 2700m and 3300m...given I struggled to walk up stairs how they did heavy lifting who knows!!

The highlight obviously was Machu Picchu which is a wonder of the world...and WOW what a site to behold...meets and exceeds expectations!! Some do the Inca trail and walk into the site for sunrise...for the glamorous travellers like ourselves we took the scenic train with a see-through roof along the river valley to the site and with our pinky out drinking Coca tea it was a fine way to arrive...much different to the Inca's before us!!

The site is huge and will let the photos below do the talking. Many great views and stories had us captivated for hours...just a shame had to share with the numerous tourists. Without mum in tow the following day I climbed Wayna Picchu above Machu Picchu for excellent views...highlight being the mist clearing as I got nearer the top to reveal the beauty of the place.

The train journey back was amusing as mum got pulled up to model some alpaca clothes using the carriage as her catwalk...after a few wolf whistles from the SAGA crowd she unfortunately had no takers...and for the shawl! Luckily she was already on her 3rd Pisco Sour to help with the "Blue Steel" pose.

The Machu Picchu train was good but the Andean Explorer put it to shame...armchairs, linen table clothes and teak toilets meant this was a luxurious way to travel from Cuzco to Lake Titicaca. Highlight was the open carriage at the back next to the bar to admire the glaciers and villages up to 4300m in altitude. Like true Brits when we heard on the tannoy that free Pisco Sour was in the bar Wendy, John, mum and myself scrummaged to the bar to maximise our opportunity for a refill. By the time of the Pisco Sour making course in the afternoon we were well oiled and we all had a great laugh sharing stories...it was a shame it all had to come to an end...gave me the taste to do more trains journeys like Trans-Siberian and bullet train...perhaps another sabbatical?!?

For me this was Lake Titicaca part 2 as have already visited from the Bolivian side. Once again it was still impressive...highest lake in the world. We went to go see the floating islands where a community lives...islands, houses and boats made from reeds. Although Disney-like it gave an insight into their strange existence. After walking into one home to see how they live I emerged in traditional dress with the lady heavily hinting that we should get married...although the altitude makes you think fuzzy I politely declined and said will call back in a few years time should I still be single!!

Unfortunately all good things must come to an end and so as I write this blog from the hotel lobby but my old travel existence must continue so to bring me back to reality with a bang I have booked an overnight bus journey north to do some trekking with the obligatory hostel dorm the following night.

Not many people have the pleasure of sharing travel with their folks but I am lucky that I was able to share 3 weeks in Peru with my mother. To share the amazing experiences together and to give her the opportunity to come to South America has been fantastic...Probably doesn't do my street cred any good but I don't care!!

Palmertours is a multi-cultural non discriminatory charitable organisation and that is why I have opened the door for the first time for those with bingo wings, cankles and suspected hairy upper lips...yup Palmertours also caters for the older generation...and I mean old!! Now obviously my mother who joined me this week for 3 weeks doesn't meet any of these criteria but I was willing to make an exception.

So looking like a New Yorker (smart dress with sneakers) mum and I ventured from neighbourhood to neighbourhood seeking out all the major sites Buenos Aires has to offer. From La Boca in the South with its colourful housing to Tigre in the North with its boat houses and waterways. Fantastic effort as ever from my mum who didn't complain...much...and just needed the occasional coffee as a pick me up. As this was my 3rd visit to the city I was able to navigate with ease but this time actually go into the museums and galleries rather than just a fleeting visit. The city has enough to see for 4 days but no more and luckily our timing coincided with the Madres protest on Thursday who are still looking for their children taken under the dictatorship regime. What was also nice to explore were the numerous antique shops with old Louis Vuitton trunks, Harley bikes and pinball machines...could see myself opening up a shop in Notting Hill next to Hugh Grant book shop!

For me the plus side came in staying in a hotel...free towels...TV in the room...sharing with a non-snorer (most of the time)...and more importantly unlimited breakfast every morning. Like a true backpacker this is red rag to a bull so made sure our breakfast sitting was 30+mins to last the day!

Our aim most nights was to find a decent hotel bar for a drink before a nice slap meal...well steak and red wine essentially as that is what the Argentinian's do so well. Drinking in a Philippe Starck designed hotel was a good start and followed this by a top steak house Las Lilas...only issue we didn't have enough cash with us as credit cards are pointless as costs 30%-40% more...luckily no washing up or a quick sprint was involved but dessert consisted of a McFlurry rather than something covered in Dulce De Leche.

Back home I enjoy a bit of culture now and then whether theatre or art and thus made sure this was ticked off during these four days as not done much over the past 6 months. Visited a Mario Testino exhibition; watched a tango show in the famous Cafe Tortoni and the highlight the opera Caligula at the majestic Teatro Colon. Worth mentioning the opera...wonderful setting...but the opera was in German with Spanish subtitles (Just like watching Apocalypto in Peru eh Dave) so didn't understand a word...plus being an ENO production the show had a modern twist with a lot of nudity!! something the BA crowd didn't enjoy as many seats emptied at half time.

We headed north by plane...another advantage of Palmertours does SAGA...Iguazu Falls voted one of the natural 7 wonders of the world (along with Table Mountain) and it certainly didn't disappoint. Wow what a amazing magical place. On this trip have been to the Victoria Falls albeit in dry season but these falls blew me away. To go to the Devils Throat you need to walk a 1km over the river and the excitement builds as you get closer...you feel the spray...you hear the crashing water...then when you arrive and see it in full flow it is magical. The place also has an Avatar feel due to the moss and plant life around the falls.

We continued around the falls as there are around 250 to see and by the late afternoon it was time to do the Great Adventure tour...15 min boat ride in and out of the falls. Some wore swimming costumes and goggles - extreme...we were more casual which we later regretted as you don't get wet you get DRENCHED! Ponchos and waterproofs don't even work...the boat drives into the falls so all around you is water. Apart from having a girl scream in my ear the whole time it was awesome and a great thrill and after wiping the mascara off we both looked semi presentable coming off the boat although the squelch with every step gave the game away as to where we had been. Our reward was a drink at the on-site hotel overlooking the falls although had to act like we owned the place as we continued to squelch through the lobby to the bar!

The next day we planned to go to Brazil to see the falls or the animal sanctuary but as on holiday we sat by the pool and just chilled. Given mum was asleep until lunchtime sometimes you forget that guests are here on holiday and with an intense 10 days to come in Peru and the Inca Trail recharging the batteries was just what the doctor ordered.