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Miss Venezuela

12/7/2014

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PictureMiss Venezuela!!
So the second reason for choosing to come to Venezuela is the hard fact that it is the only country to top the Miss World contest with 6 wins and it's in 2nd place overall in the Miss Universe competition with 7 wins. The first reason was to meet some of my family but more on that later.

Like any respectable male I first went in search of Miss Venezuela and came within sniffing distance of her apparently. At the Angel Falls I was in a truck and saw some beautiful girls passing by to whom I gave my best "Hola Bonita!" eyes. To which they all replied with their "Get lost you weirdo" eyes and I don't think my drooling helped me much! Unfortunately they didn't hop on our bus and our guide informed us later that one of them was Miss World ... sooo close! Not to be put off I then continued my search and eventually got lucky in the Orinoco Delta as you can see in my photo on the left ... meeting Miss World 1938! Sat behind me is Mr Universe 1939. It's a romantic story of them both fleeing the limelight together for the jungle hence the happy smiles when I asked for a photo!!

As for Venezuela itself despite the recent bad press it is a beautiful country with friendly people and with the US$$$ it makes it an affordable place to visit. On the official currency market of 6B:$1 it has the second highest Big Mac index price of $7.15 (after Norway). Yet on the black market of B70:$1 it then has the lowest. $100 is B7000 in B50 bills...so I always looked like a player! Due to the poor government and availability of dollars to buy imports the country is in an economic turmoil - hence the huge disparity in rates. Nobody has money to buy goods so a lot of the shops are empty see the picture inside Zara below! Also supermarkets are rationing their food with 2 chickens per week etc. cars queue for 2 days to get new tyres and used tyres are more expensive than new tyres due to simple supply and demand. You queue in Venezuela for everything from banks, ATM's, bread, tills and petrol ... I remember seeing Russians queuing for goods years ago and couldn't believe it and here I am seeing and unfortunately experiencing it first hand. The only good thing is that they queue properly like a Brit ... the Indian way of pushing in could get nasty! The worst problems have been with medical equipment - patients families head to Colombia to buy surgical supplies so that their operations can happen! People are not staring at your designer handbag but that you have milk and sugar in your shopping bags - this season's 'must have' item! The other crazy thing in all of this is the cost of gasoline. My car holds 60L and costs me $130 to fill up in London. Here it would cost me U$1 at the official rate and U$0.1 at the black market rate. It's practically free! The issue is that car parts and oil are all imported so protests go on about availability of these items to keep your car running. American flights into the country have now reduced from 10 per day to 1. I have been lucky enough to spend some time here with my cousins Marisol and Gilberto to understand and see what life is like in Venezuela. Also for those living in Caracas not only can you not buy milk but you also have the highest murder rate in the world to deal with. The blacked out windows on cars (including front screen) are to hide you from hijackers not protect you from the sun. Also if you run your own business you also run the risk of it being nationalised. In Margarita, boat company's, hotels and restaurants are all randomly taken and given back to 'Chavistas'. We've have already seen what happened in Zimbabwe when things were nationalised and it didn't always go that well!

Despite all of this I have had a great time here and wish I could spend more in Venezuela. World News has highlighted political and violent issues and in some cases you can't really go out after 8pm as it's unsafe yet I have been to some cool places over last few weeks and hardly scratched the surface. I write all this uncomfortable stuff from the comfort of my cousin's air conditioned apartment drinking a lovely Chilean Chardonnay so I am seeing everything here through rose tinted glasses bought with my US Dollars. But other travellers I met have also said the same things. Don't take my word for it and come visit, but be quick before all the goods fly off the shelves!
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Life in Venezuela...shortages for your new Zara outfit...at least it is cheap to drive to the nightclubs!
As I said the main reason for coming to Venezuela has been to meet some cousins for the first time ever. A brief family history ... My Opa's (grandfather) name is Helmut Frederick Wilheim Von Seggern. During WWII he left Germany and went to South West Africa (a German colony now Namibia) and in South Africa was then interned by the British Army as a POW. Upon the war ending he then moved back to SW Africa. He had 3 girls with my Oma one of which is my mother (Monica). My Opa's brother Elu instead came to Venezuela and strangely also had 4 girls - the possible end of the Von Seggern name! My grandparents last came to Venezuela 50 years ago and no other Von Seggern (from my side) has come to visit until now! I wanted to reconnect with my cousins as communication has been very limited as well as wanted to learn more about the Von Seggern family history. My fabulous hosts Marisol and Gilberto whom I have never met have been amazing (they have 2 sons the same age as my brother and I and they are both accountants - it must be in the Von Seggern blood as my Opa also had his own accounting practice!) Like a true Von Seggern we dropped off my bags and then stocked the cooler box with rum and tonic...my new favorite drink and then went for a drive around the island. After queuing for 20 mins for bread at a supermarket we then needed another rum and tonic to get us home - as I said the perfect hosts! We have talked about the family, local views on life in Venezuela and also tasted the wonderful local cuisine. Like other Von Seggern's Marisol is a great cook making me homemade arepas, urchin and mango dessert. I will be trying a few new recipes on unsuspecting guests when I'm back in October! I have also spoken to many of my cousins and hope now that this is the start of  correspondence and visits in the future ... the beauty of Facebook! It has been a great way to end my Venezuela adventure.

Check out a photo below of my grandfather ... also a ginger (but with a full head of hair) any likeness???

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The invite said blue!
Have you read "The Lost World" by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle...a "Romancing The Stone" / Indiana Jones style adventure? The mountain portrayed in that is said to be Roraima and was my first stop and impression of Venezuela. It was my task over 6 days to summit it at 2810m, survey the top and return in one piece ... without any treasure, although there are crystal fields on top but its illegal to take any. After ignoring the warnings about being rainy season, the cold and puri-puri black flies that are worse than Mosquitos I set off with 8 others across beautiful savannahs and rivers before ascending through jungle and waterfalls to the flat top.

Camp life: Despite the rainy season we got lucky with mostly sunshine when walking. With warnings of cold I didn't take thermals so summit camp was spent drinking rum and zip-locked in my sleeping bag. As for the puri puri...they take no prisoners and go for all out attack! I got 10 bites (often bleeding) on my right foot within 15 mins as I forgot to spray below the ankles ... fellow trekkers legs and arms looked like a voodoo doll! Smaller and quieter than mosquitos they are the silent destroyers, the ninjas of the biting insect world! Otherwise camp life was good with good guides, good food and good company from all parts of the globe.

It was a visually stunning trek as every day you saw the flat top mountain in various shades of colour depending on sun or cloud. Had to cross numerous rivers to reach the camps with the final push walking underneath waterfalls with all your gear ... my trainers were soaked! The flat top and vistas to the Gran Sabana (including Guyana - known as the Zone Of Reclamation on Venezuela maps after us Brits took it and it's now independent) below was well worth it. On the top numerous pools, caves, quartz fields and unusual rock formations gave it a moon like landscape.

As I have mentioned before if you see me in a tent you have permission to kill me (as Sir Steve Redgrave once said) as I realised after night one why I hate camping! A small tent on hard ground. The only small print to my death sentence is that if I have a comfortable sleeping mat and big enough tent for my 6ft frame then I will do it. Bruised hips and sleepless nights were not what I signed up for.

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The Lost World!
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The trekking crew tackling the rivers and waterfalls
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Camp Life!
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Yes I do look like a Smurf but a very cool Smurf!!
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Some interesting flora and animals to grab your attention
Thanks to a gold prospector called Jimmy Angel flying around Venezuela the worlds tallest waterfall was discovered in 1937 when he crash landed on top of the Tepui near to the falls. Today illegal gold prospectors are still in the area but the main pull to Canaima are the falls.

There is only one way in and out and that is by plane...in my case a 6 seater Cessna for 50 mins. The landing is awesome as it comes over Canaima Lagoon...a series of smaller falls that provided an extra bonus to the area. These falls were super cool as we were able to walk behind them and see/feel the ferociousness and power of the water falling just c.30m...think what Angel Falls would feel like at 979m!

My first night provided much entertainment as I made friends with a British/US lad from the plane (fresh off on his 7 week hols and super keen for beers!). To set the scene the isolated town has 2500 residents for tourism and booze cannot be brought in as the locals get super lashed! There are 3 bars that we found although this discounts the airport (landing strip) as closes at 5.30. At the end of the crawl around the lake we found the main bar with the promise of 5 girls but it had just locals ... very very drunk locals. Turns out they were all local gold miners so rich (comparatively speaking) and bored on a Wednesday night! 2 of them could hardly stand yet didn't fall over ... I think the Latin dancing ability prevents that! Many Westerners came in and turned around but Paddy and I persisted along with another couple from the lodge. It soon emerged into a scene from "Shaun Of The Dead" but with drunk zombies. They spoke to us but we didn't understand a word. They also wouldn't leave us alone, our only escape was to pretend to be drunk zombies and blend in and walk away to the other side of the bar. This worked for a while until they caught on - finally the lights went out annoyingly without telling us Last Orders! The worst dude was thrown into a boat; another taken into the woods to sleep it off; and another simply lying down on the dance floor.

What is interesting about Canaima that surprised the Venezuela tourists is that you can use your iPhone to guide your journey home at 11pm and not get mugged/shot ... it can't happen anywhere else in Venezuela. Canaima has no police and relies on the local chief for mediating between the families.

Now the highlight is obviously the Angel falls and the only way there is a dug out canoe paddle for 4 hours upstream through rapids! Followed by an hour walk to the viewpoint and further 30 mins to the pools. This gave the adventure an Indiana Jones feel (turns out Harrison Ford has visited!). It was well worth it and what a sight seeing the falls with the longest interrupted drop of 807m. Even better when sharing with only 20 tourists all afternoon. The advantage of Venezuela right now! Chilling (and the water was cold) in the waters admiring the falls has to be up there with top things to do. We spent the night in hammocks by the river and got up for sunrise to admire the beauty of the falls once again. (Don't tell the Venezuelans but the Iguazu Falls tops the Palmer waterfall index!)

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View into Canaima from the plane
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A new mode of transport for this trip!
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Canaima Falls
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Getting up close and personal with the Canaima Falls
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The adventurous boat ride to the falls
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The majestic Angel Falls
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Brings new meaning to the word Jacuzzi when under the Angel Falls
Next stop Orinoco Delta for 2 days. Same same but different to Amazon. An untouched more authentic jungle area than the Amazon although I did see fewer animals. As an experience it was great as I stayed in a quiet camp with max 3 of us. My private hut with open sides looked out onto the river. It was a lovely tranquil camp and the surrounding community huts gave it more of a remote, jungle feel. I saw parrots, howler monkeys, dolphins, toucans, bats, lizards and other birds. Tried again unsuccessfully to catch piranha but did eat some ... had bit of a bite!

Only downside to the jungle and more so than previous jungle areas have been the Mosquitos! I sprayed and wore long sleeves but these are super Mosquitos who bite through clothing...I reckon they are the SBS (Navy Seals if you're a yank) of the mosquito world - so my back and legs look blotchy and itch like a bad case of scabies! How do they get you between the fingers and toes when you're covered with 100% deet??

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Jungle Life...my room had a nice view although the Mosquitos enjoyed it even more!
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Some of the birds on show! Plus a few dolphins.
My final stop was Margarita Island in Eastern VZ and near to Trinidad and Tobago. A tax free island like Channel Islands (UK) or Canary Islands (Spain). A beautiful island with amazing beaches, sunsets and importantly warm seas. My aim apart from visiting family has been to stand up at kitesurfing...I ran out of wind last time in Egypt. This time luckily I did it! Although there is no photo evidence. I was meant to have more time on the board but the wind died so you'll have to take my word for it!

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Isla de Margarita
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Ecuador...part uno

7/5/2014

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I am in a new country...Ecuador...the problem is every time I think "oh I am in Ecuador" I break out into a mini rave thanks to the 90's tune by Sash!

Before arriving I was losing my travel Mojo...think due to the many 18+ hours bus rides I did to get here...but my Mojo is now back thanks to meeting some cool people on a bus to Banos and only have max 4hr bus rides to endure thanks to the small size of Ecuador.

First stop was Riobamba which is not worth the stop. I was here for the train ride except I got the wrong town for the AMAZING engineering feat of Ecuador so went by train into the mountains but nothing WOW about it. The train to a little village with a misty view of the tallest mountain in Ecuador was essentially something BA Baracas and the A-Team put together...They went into a shed with a truck and a train...put on a battering ram and roof top for sniping and finished with my train! Call me spoilt but having been on trains in Argentina and Peru this was definitely in 3rd place. The A-Team turned into Mad Max as we had these 5 motorcyclists clad in leather with masks following us to block the roads.

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"I ain't getting in no train FOOL!!" Watching the cute kid lassoing the dog was half way entertainment!

Following unsuccessful Riobamba went to successful Banos...essentially a hot spring town with activities galore. It is next to a very active Ecuador volcano...went on a party bus to see this volcano...well the mist meant we couldn't even see 20ft so can't vouch for the volcanic activity!

As I said previously in Peru went for a training run and my legs were still hurting so I decided to go for a massage the hostel was offering...$20 for 1 hour so I was game. First thing with a massage is don't fart so need to keep the cheeks under control. Second thing is keep a memory of Margaret Thatcher in the mind in case things get embarrassing. My face was head down and was nice and relaxing until I heard the sound of rubber gloves...bit kinky and I don't even know Spanish for "extras"...first thought was what are "safe words" in Spanish to get me out of this mess!! Luckily nothing untoward happened and think they were used due to the fingers having bobbling for exfoliation. By coincidence "Chariots of Fire" came on the radio as she was working my legs. To make things worse she then used gloves to finish me off (not like that!!) rather than her hands like I had some sort of skin rash. Despite all this felt relaxed and rejuvenated with my legs ready for the next beating...cycling the next day in the rain through the canyon.

Luckily the cycling was easy and downhill that passed many waterfalls which was great to get up close and personal to but call me a snob but when you get under the Iguazu Falls nothing compares!!

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Party bus to the non-existent volcano with some Germans. A good soak after my bike ride in the rain...Yes I still need to work on my tan!!

Next stop Latagunga for some glaciers and volcanoes...as you can tell I am in a rush due to a flight tomorrow to the Galapagos! Did an acclimatisation trek to the Quilotoa lake at c.4000m which was a stunning blue/green/azure colour despite the intermittent rain. The following day I was going to summit Cotopaxi which at 5900m is higher than Kilimanjaro...although you drive to 4500m so kind of cheating. Due to the poor success rate and poor weather (ie no visibility) I just went to 5000m to see the start of the glacier. This volcano erupted in 1905 and erupts every 100 years so watch out if you visit soon!!

Now I like ticking boxes and getting to 5000m is an interesting box that I have now ticked...I have been higher than Mount Everest!! Due to the curvature of the Earth the glacier on Cotopaxi is further from centre of Earth than Everest...surely the true measure of any mountain and summit!! Now I am no Stephen Hawkings (no comments!) but if Everest is 8900m above sea level and I was at 5000m yet further from the Earth core...does this mean all the water moves from the Ecuador to the poles??? Surely gravity has a part to play??? One for the boffins to explain! (By the way if my logic is rubbish and I am going loco then blame not working for 7 months!!)

Next up in Graham Physics lesson...which way does the water flush when using the toilet at the Equator??? (Don't worry won't show photo evidence!)

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Lago Quilotoa
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Cotopaxi volcano...who needs to summit when you are still higher than Everest!!
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Ice Ice Baby...de de de de-de de de!!

Final stop of this Ecuador section was Quito. The amazing thing is that you use the PanAmerican Highway to get here...if I went South would end up in Ushuaia, Argentina and North would be Alaska, USA...bizarre!!

Another city...another stat...second highest capital in the world with the 2nd longest cable car to the nearby volcano! Was also the first UNESCO city! Love a factoid!!

Despite its sometimes dangerous reputation it isn't a bad city although weather hasn't been kind. The only thing dangerous about it so far was me climbing the metal staircase to the Basilica tower in a lightning shower in flip-flops!! The old town is nice with old cobbled streets and balconied houses/mansions.

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Quito by grey cloud...inevitable when in a volcanic valley. At least acclimatisation comes easier and easier these days!!
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Planes, Trains & Automobiles

18/4/2014

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The last 10 days in Peru have been a blast with one major factor being that I have been living the high life thanks to my mum. You know you are in for luxury when someone meets you at the airport with a sign and your name...You don't get that at bus stations and hostels!! Every airport or train station there was a rep awaiting our arrival...every morning there was a taxi picking us up for another tour...have not had to plan or think or lift a finger and has been awesome...a taste of the high life!! This is down to Llama Tours who have done a great job in organising a top trip. The nice thing about this section of my trip has been the numerous flights and luxurious train rides compared to the uncomfortable bus seats.

Another comforting factor has been the great people we have met along the way. Our fellow travellers have been of a mature nature but have had the same energy and enthusiasm to travel as both mum and I. Sharing Machu Picchu with Ian and Heather and the Andean Explorer/Puno with Wendy and John has showed me that travel later in life isn't about cruises and socks n sandels...although John's Moon Boots to dinner was a step too far!! We had some giggles and fun times not least helped by numerous Pisco Sour's...my mum being the instigator with 10.30am our earliest drink!!

Our daily routine was to find the nicest hotel and have a Pisco Sour to relax from the day activities...our first night involved Cuy a local Guinea Pig...very meaty taste like pigeon...luckily saw them alive the next day otherwise might of had second thoughts to eating pet Snuffles!

Travelling with your mum does create some awkward situations...one bel-boy thought we were on our honeymoon...Awkward...then someone on the Andean Explorer didn't believe we were mother/son...think they thought I was older than I look!!

We started our Peru trip in Cuzco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. Our tour guide Yashira was a gold mine of information and facts that explained life in Peru during the Inca times. But what really blew me away were the ruins and architectural designs of the Inca people to make these temples, terraces and palaces. The various blocks of rock fitted perfectly with one another so much so that you couldn't fit a piece of paper between them...all made by hand and when you see the terrain you appreciate how hard it was to create these amazing sites. You also have to remember that the altitude in this area is between 2700m and 3300m...given I struggled to walk up stairs how they did heavy lifting who knows!!

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Before and after my guinea pig...luckily I saw the before after the meal!
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Cuzco life...as well as the Peruvian version of Coldplay! Spoilers on the Tuk-Tuk are the envy of every Kevin!
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Sacred Valley speaks for itself...puts Bob The Builder to shame with the quality of work...although Coca Tea delays were a common occurrence

The highlight obviously was Machu Picchu which is a wonder of the world...and WOW what a site to behold...meets and exceeds expectations!! Some do the Inca trail and walk into the site for sunrise...for the glamorous travellers like ourselves we took the scenic train with a see-through roof along the river valley to the site and with our pinky out drinking Coca tea it was a fine way to arrive...much different to the Inca's before us!!

The site is huge and will let the photos below do the talking. Many great views and stories had us captivated for hours...just a shame had to share with the numerous tourists. Without mum in tow the following day I climbed Wayna Picchu above Machu Picchu for excellent views...highlight being the mist clearing as I got nearer the top to reveal the beauty of the place.

The train journey back was amusing as mum got pulled up to model some alpaca clothes using the carriage as her catwalk...after a few wolf whistles from the SAGA crowd she unfortunately had no takers...and for the shawl! Luckily she was already on her 3rd Pisco Sour to help with the "Blue Steel" pose.

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The train to Machu Picchu was the only way to travel...mum decided to turn the carriage into a catwalk without the aid of any Pisco Sours!
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At any moment of the day and angle/position the ruins were amazing and definitely earned their "Wonder" status
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Proof we made it to the top...thanks to the bus...but do not underestimate the altitude...steps can make you look like an overweight slob (present company excluded)

The Machu Picchu train was good but the Andean Explorer put it to shame...armchairs, linen table clothes and teak toilets meant this was a luxurious way to travel from Cuzco to Lake Titicaca. Highlight was the open carriage at the back next to the bar to admire the glaciers and villages up to 4300m in altitude. Like true Brits when we heard on the tannoy that free Pisco Sour was in the bar Wendy, John, mum and myself scrummaged to the bar to maximise our opportunity for a refill. By the time of the Pisco Sour making course in the afternoon we were well oiled and we all had a great laugh sharing stories...it was a shame it all had to come to an end...gave me the taste to do more trains journeys like Trans-Siberian and bullet train...perhaps another sabbatical?!?

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Do you notice a theme??? Yes mum and an alcoholic drink...the G&T swapped for a Pisco Sour...think on a permanent basis!! Highlight of the trip being the train...what a way to travel...could get used to this!! Note the books on the line ready for a potential sale...also saw food and car parts
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Ascending from 3300m to 4300m and down to 3800m meant breathtaking scenery around every bend...open window at the back meant great views although felt like Butch Cassidy could arrive on horseback any minute!!

For me this was Lake Titicaca part 2 as have already visited from the Bolivian side. Once again it was still impressive...highest lake in the world. We went to go see the floating islands where a community lives...islands, houses and boats made from reeds. Although Disney-like it gave an insight into their strange existence. After walking into one home to see how they live I emerged in traditional dress with the lady heavily hinting that we should get married...although the altitude makes you think fuzzy I politely declined and said will call back in a few years time should I still be single!!

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I got married off at the floating village although the lack of Wifi meant she is coming back to London!

Unfortunately all good things must come to an end and so as I write this blog from the hotel lobby but my old travel existence must continue so to bring me back to reality with a bang I have booked an overnight bus journey north to do some trekking with the obligatory hostel dorm the following night.

Not many people have the pleasure of sharing travel with their folks but I am lucky that I was able to share 3 weeks in Peru with my mother. To share the amazing experiences together and to give her the opportunity to come to South America has been fantastic...Probably doesn't do my street cred any good but I don't care!!

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Buena Vista Trekking Club

20/2/2014

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I remember fondly from my school days our 6th form geography field trips. It wasn't the case studies of glaciation in the Lake District; the rivers of Devon or the urban planning of Newcastle. No it was the fun times with your school mates away from home for a week...Lango and his mini-bus rally driving skills; Jonny Angel proudly wearing his Arsenal scarf through the Byker Estate in Newcastle; Rich and I making a lame attempt at covering the bus in loo paper; and of course trying to score booze or the late night run home from the pub due to the curfew!

Heading to Torres Del Paine National Park (This park was awarded the 8th Natural Wonder of the World...what happened to just 7?? Jealous Table Mountain got that accolade?!? Why stop at 8?!?) in Southern Chile suddenly brought back memory of my school studies. The area can be classified as a Physical Geography teachers wet dream! Whereas at school we had to visualise glaciers, rivers and diffluent col down here you can see glaciers and their devastating force with your own eyes. See the glacial lakes and rivers meandering through the valley. The twisting of the rock from the immense pressure of the tectonic plates millions of years ago.

This knowledge occasionally impressed my new travel partner (Nancy from Sydney from EY days) but was mainly met with a L across her forehead towards me..."LOSER!"

My early blogs of needing jaw dropping scenery to impress me certainly exceeded my expectations here. Anyway see the photos for yourself and marvel at the breath taking scenery. What the locals call Buena Vista! My aim was to seek green /azure lakes and they certainly fulfilled this in abundance.

Unfortunately this comes at a price...yup camping it up ("oohh Matron" Kenneth Williams) is a nightmare. Tents are not made for light sleepers and 6ft manly frames. I was able to pitch my tent ("aight" Ali G) to prove my manly skills but after that the fun disappears. Picturesque camp sites are appealing but lack of sleep out weighs this. Thus the option of getting up at 4am for sunrise was much more appealing than sleeping on the ground!! The views were well worth it although the cold air at the summit suddenly made the tent have the comfort of a 10 tog doona (sorry Oz influence from Nancy after a week...means duvet!)

Luckily we only did the light "W" walk so had to carry kit for just 2 days not 5. We decided to spend more time in El Chalten and have a hostel/cabana for day walks which is much more pleasant. I say "we" loosely as Nancy did all the prep and organising skills for her 3 weeks...the rule of any joining member of Palmer Tours is that of planner...and thanks to her spreadsheet (she is an accountant after all!! Don't worry no mention of accounting is made in public places...although embarrassingly all border post forms ask for our profession!) the plan is error free so far...so far!!! Like a good ex-auditor I am always checking things ;) Also Nancy brought the Ozzie sunshine with her as we had the only hot days Patagonia has seen all summer!!

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The only way city slickers do night walks...iPhone 5 torch and Bobble bottle. The llama was watching over us as our boat departed...supposedly a puma too but did not see any evidence!!
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Guess who worked out the colour isolation function on my camera...can get it to pick out my gingerafro and nothing else!!

After nearly getting stuck in Puerto Natales as all buses were full which is not ideal as not much going on we headed to Perito Moreno glacier in El Calafate back in Argentina (3rd of 5th border entries being madero Arg!). Our mode of transport was the Little Miss Sunshine mini-van...was part of a family trip but didn't care as all other avenues of taxi, hitching and flying had expired. And wow what a sight the glacier was!! Ok very touristy and set up for the masses but being that close to the glacier and seeing / hearing it crash around you is awesome...it moves by 2m per day!! Mother Nature at her best!! Surprisingly peaceful just watching it and seeing it drop bits into the blue glacial lake.

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A glacier that advances rather retreats...again was having a Kit-Kat when the ice fell so only the shock wave afterwards as evidence!

Not to be outdone El Chalten 3 hours away is where Mount Fitzroy (3405m) peaks above all those around it. A technically challenging summit that was not on my radar to complete as involves ropes and ice axes...although the trekking around it to the lakes and glaciers proved equally rewarding as the W walk and a great way to sign off trekking and no more sleeping in cold/uncomfortable tents in South Patagonia. Unfortunately after 4hrs up to the Fitz Roy view it was overcast but the view from the high street the following morning was equally beautiful.

So we camped for one night again and as the gentleman I took the tent and heavy items but I am not going to lug gas, pots and dried noddles...meant my back thanked me as I slept on the hard forest floor!! Unfortunately did mean we ate cold pizza for dinner whilst smelling the chicken noodles from next door! Winning Trivial Pursuit was the only consolation.

The Argentinians have managed to adapt Swiss style architecture to their trekking/activity areas albeit they are new towns whereas Chile prefers the tin shed option...Swiss style reminds me of Europe and more pleasing to the eye whereas Chile has perhaps the more authentic look. Hence Argentina is winning over Chile for favourite country so far!! Issue with Chalten is lack of internet...my Commodore 64 could load things quicker...rather sad though that dependent on wifi but booking hostels etc it is a key traveller requirement. The good thing about these little towns are the quality of the beer and steak...steak for 3 nights in a row followed by digestifs at the micro-brewer...don't worry made sure of token vegetable for a balanced diet!

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Mixture of sun and cloud didn't put us off exploring the mountains...unfortunately sunrise at Fitzroy was missed due to sleeping through alarm!!
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Our lunch spots along the way...beats the Hammersmith Flyover!!

And finally...had my first "what the F are you doing here" moment!! Yesterday after a double-take bumped into a friend Bridget from EY days in Chalten who is taking 6 months off...not such a small world after all!!

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